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Basically, the JLR car amp is no longer providing power. Compared to the regular JLR sub, the deep bass sound is now a million times better. It took a while to get the new speaker set up in the tube and to adjust the head unit's gain and sub settings so that the sound was clear and consistent throughout the volume range.

I opted for a powered tube, which came with its own amplifier. I connected the car's audio sources, fused the battery's permanent live terminal, connected the positive terminal of the epb module to the terminal above the bcm(b), and, of course, connected an earth to the terminal of the battery's body, not the battery itself (because that would be on the wrong side of the bms).

Have you connected an additional amplifier? Surely it wouldn't be too much trouble to use the battery to power the switch using the current connections?

All four of the speaker wires must be lengthened. Two negatives and two positives are present.

The four-prong connector for the subwoofer is actually HD gauge. Uncertain of its purpose, it appears to be four times thicker than "ordinary" automobile wiring. Why do I know? Because I completed the task in my vehicle. I snuck past the vehicle's subwoofer and sought out a tube that rested against the rear seats.

I am grateful. After conducting some research (or rather, consulting ChatGPT 😅), it was recommended to use 14awg oxygen-free copper cable and to construct or purchase an 18mm MDF box with a 32 litre capacity. Beyond the actual tasks at hand, it is clear that I require an additional project...

Given that the original wire probably had very thin insulation that is rated for high temperatures, I don't see why it wouldn't work. However, a cheaper, PVC-covered wire of the same size might have a lower current rating. Technically, the best sound will result from wires that are an exact match (same impedance mainly) because there will be no signal reflections caused by the mismatched join. However, in subwoofer use, you might not even notice the difference. Any possible justification for not extending all of the wires eludes me.

Amazon.co.uk : subwoofer

https://www.amazon.com/s?ascsubtag=v1-38475b-75500-d8fbb0e190-k&k=Meridian+car+sound+system

I, too, am a proud owner of a Meridian sound system, and my subwoofer is mounted in the spare tyre well. I was hoping that some of you experts could tell me if this idea has any chance of succeeding or not. I'm thinking of getting a plain wooden subwoofer box, taking out the current Meridian unit from its home in the large black housing beneath the spare wheel (just the woofer, keep the larger black housing), running new wires—the ones that would normally go to the engine—into the box, and positioning it high inside the trunk. Because I'm sure it will have a more pleasing tone. On the other hand, I'm not sure why or which of the four wires that already protrude from the black casing I should extend. Just wondering if there's a cheaper way to do it myself, or if I should follow Alex's lead and purchase a separate subwoofer setup.

The M badge merely serves as a symbol; the construction of M vehicles is in a different category altogether. Examine this; I still view it occasionally, one of the motivations for purchasing the M4.

BMW 6 Series (G32) - Wikipedia

The B58 engine was utilised in the G32 640i from 2020 to 2023.

The M4 is an impressive and exceedingly rapid vehicle, yet it exceeds my financial capacity. I typically seek vehicles with low mileage, approximately 30,000, and favour authorised dealerships. Currently, the M420i is reasonably priced; what are your thoughts on it? Fortunately, my 2007 650i E63 successfully passed its MOT today; I'm quite pleased with this nearly two-decade-old vehicle.

Every 640 model was equipped with the N55 engine. The 435 and 440 models are equipped with the B58 engine, but I prefer the M240 with the B58 due to its superior speed, increased horsepower, and 300 kg weight advantage, along with the M badge.

In my opinion, it is more expensive; I possess the S55 in my M4, which features excellent engines, yet every engine from any manufacturer has its own issues.I have possessed it for almost four years, only expending what I truly desired; the charge cooler was the sole component that failed, costing £500 for an upgraded version and installation.The remainder were standard, such as plugs, springs, and other maintenance services, etc.

The 640i is equipped with the B58 engine, I am certain.

Amazon.co.uk : BMW B58

Amazon.co.uk : BMW N55 engine

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=BMW

I appreciate your response. It appears that all BMW models encounter problems; however, research indicates that B58 engines experience the fewest issues and have received considerable acclaim. The N55, N62, and N63 are the most problematic; I currently own an N62 and am seeking to part ways with it. It's unfortunate that 640s are not equipped with the B58 engine. What is the premier BMW engine currently available? B58, N63, N55, or N62? I will not regard the S engines as exceeding my budget due to financial and maintenance considerations.

Verts may experience leakage issues, particularly in the 4 series; it is uncertain if the 2 series shares this problem. The B58 engine is excellent but has minor issues; conducting online research on the eccentric shaft motor and other minor concerns related to cooling, valve cover leaks, and oil filter housing is advisable.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=BMW+B58

Greetings, I am contemplating the acquisition of a 2017 M240i automatic and will be undertaking a test drive tomorrow; I require some preliminary information. 1. How is the noise level for convertibles on highways? Is the B58 engine dependable? What is the legroom and seating comfort for a 6-foot driver? 4. Presume limited leg space and uncomfortable rear seating for adults? 5. Are there overarching reliability concerns? 6. Are there additional aspects to contemplate? Thank you in advance.