All Activity

During my ownership of a Discovery 3, the mirrors would often adhere; a Land Rover technician recommended applying a silicone lubricant - I utilise WD40 Silicone lubricant (other brands are accessible), and I was cautioned against using standard WD40 on door locks, hinges, etc., as it may exacerbate the issue, since standard WD40 can become exceedingly tacky upon drying.

Silicone Lubricant - WD-40 Specialist 400ml - Pack of 2 : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Are they the ones that are flush with the bodywork and protrude when the key is used to unlock? I have not encountered any problems, but I cleared away any debris using a 1-inch paintbrush and applied a light mist of WD40 on the visible folding hinges and slightly into the deeper section behind them. Throughout two winters, I have completed the task twice, and it has been exceptionally seamless. I have come across information indicating that they can lead to issues and are costly to fix. Similar to the majority of products on our cherished RR’s!

The door handle of my Evoque has begun to feel rigid recently, particularly in colder temperatures. It continues to function, yet the fluidity has undoubtedly diminished.

I lower the headlights for an approaching vehicle, and they revert to high beam. - A different vehicle is nearing me from around a bend, activating its high beams as it turns the corner. A perfectly straight road causes the main beam to activate as the approaching vehicle is too distant for the system to detect, dazzling the oncoming motorist. I thoroughly detest that system, and it has become customary for me to deactivate it promptly upon starting the engine.

I disabled it on my device. It lacks sufficient speed and sensitivity, resulting in frequent flashing, and it fails to operate below 30 mph, as it presumes you are in an urban environment; however, many local roads have speed limits under 30 mph where high beam is necessary.

Could I enquire about the reason? I possess an ALS on my S204 and appreciate every aspect of it.

🥲

I possess that feature on our Hilux, and I despise it.

This is an exceptionally splendid attribute... during a nocturnal drive (outside urban locales), I relish activating them and allowing them to remain on, confident that the vehicle will graciously dim the high beams upon detecting an approaching car. I have never experienced this feature in any vehicle prior, so I am thoroughly enjoying it. Is this an upgrade that is frequently adopted by individuals?

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=diesel+engine&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181132&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512X18da30f343e46e2cd5fb9adfa91c9252&subId2=15

Especially after the refresh, the W204s are fantastic vehicles. The C220 CDI has a solid lump in the form of its OM651 engine. Problems with the injectors or glow plugs are possible, as is the case with all high miler diesels. The DPF can also become blocked. Select a vehicle with a clean service record to avoid the high cost of diesel engine repairs, such as replacing the high-pressure fuel pump. Another easy fix is the possibility of the front wheel speed sensors going out.

I really like the way they look and feel compared to the W205, so it's a shame I have to read up on them. Thank you for your response. Getting a late 2014 or 2015 version won't solve that problem, in my opinion; the information is often contradictory because MB isn't forthcoming about whether or not they changed them later on.

Revisit the W204 Rear Subframe search. You are not being excessively worried; it is terrible. Even with a recent MOT, W204 cars can conceal corrosion in the rear subframe. However, results do appear to be inconsistent. Even worse, MB is unwilling to admit fault.

Good day, The operational expenses, petrol, taxes, and mileages I was doing just weren't feasible at the time, and I still occasionally regret selling my previous W203 C class petrol automatic, but I inherited it from my dad. I am currently hunting for a 2.1 C220 CDI BlueEfficiency AMG Sport Edition 125 G-Tronic+ Euro 5 (s/s) 2dr that I hope to purchase with approximately 100,000 miles on the odometer, a partial history of Mercedes-Benz service, and that was recently serviced at the Mercedes-Benz specialist. Any specific purchasing advice would be greatly appreciated. Even though I'm usually comfortable checking over cars because I do a lot of maintenance on my own, the sub frame problem is really getting under my skin. It seems to rust internally, which isn't always obvious from the bottom, according to my research. I feel like I'm being overly concerned, but there's no guarantee that MB will cover the cost of the expensive repair, and the MOT history doesn't indicate any rust or corroded rear coil springs or suspension parts. Truthfully, my mom's A class hasn't been very successful, and I blame the fact that we don't often buy from main dealers but rather from local specialists. I would be very appreciative of any additional guidance on what to prioritise when purchasing the vehicle. I am very grateful.

🤩

My sincere appreciation

Finding a shop to handle it is my recommendation after that last question; the process is the same regardless of the location of the hose: release the clamps, remove the old hose, install the new one, and then secure the clamps. With its roomy interior and convenient location, the Tracker is a breeze to drive. This is not the case with the Tracker; in other vehicles I've worked on, you either have to feel your way or pull the engine to gain access; in at least one case, you actually have to pull the engine. If you're not confident in your ability to access and properly connect the Tracker's upper and lower radiator hoses, you shouldn't attempt to work on other parts of the vehicle. The lower hose does not connect to the engine block; instead, it is divided into two sections: one that travels from the radiator to a metal pipe, and another that branches off that pipe to feed the heater and bypass hoses. This second section then connects to the block behind the water pump. While changing the hoses in a cooling system isn't rocket science, there are a few obstacles to overcome. For example, as you may have noticed, getting to the hoses on the bottom of the radiator can be a bit of a problem. With practice, you'll pick up tricks like twisting the hose before pulling on it or inserting a right-angled pick between the hose and the 'pipe' and working it around to break the bond. Corrosion to the point that individual metal pipe sections snap at the slightest touch is another common occurrence. Lastly, make sure you use the right hose. Be wary of those who try to sell you hoses rated for fuel or oil and tell you they will work. They may, but they will become brittle from the ethylene glycol in the coolant within a year, making them break instead of bend.

I need to know the best way to change the radiator hoses on my 1996 Geo Tracker 1.6 engine.

It is difficult to even see, much less reach, the lower hose on the engine block. Which components of the engine must be removed?

Only one way to do it: loosen the clamps, take out the old one, put in the new one, tighten the clamps, and then refill with coolant.

The lower radiator hose on my 1996 Geo Tracker 2-door has blown. I need to know how to replace them.

No matter the manufacturer, a generic code reader can read all powertrain (Engine and Transmission) codes. When the OBD2 standard was first introduced in the US in 1996, that was its entire purpose. When it comes to modules like airbags, anti-lock brakes, and others, you'll need a tool that can communicate with data specific to the manufacturer. Due to the engine-related nature of the issue, a generic reader should suffice.

Amazon.co.uk : OBD II scanner

Achtung, spoiler! Despite what some may say, any obd reader will not be able to read Ford codes. You will need to invest in a dedicated device.