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I have to confess that I prefer the "pseudo gear lever" on my previous Outlander—which was used to shift into Drive or Reverse—to the rotary dial on my MG4. Surprisingly, it's not easy to put the MG4 into Neutral without accidentally shifting into reverse.

I was under the impression that off-road-focused electric vehicles would feature a gearshift for shifting between driving modes, such as hill descent, crawl, locking out the (perhaps virtual) differential, and others. Naturally, in addition to park and reverse. I am unsure of the location of those controls on Land Rover's BEV.

While Mercedes has eliminated the start button in favour of an automatic second gear that kicks in at higher speeds, all you have to do to get going is flick the stalk while pressing down on the brake pedal. The paddles are still used to set the regen, but once a level is set, it remains even after the car is turned off.

For the time being, I will stalk you while you are behind the wheel. Besides that, I would be completely turned off. A column-mounted "gear" stick is standard on the new Suzuki eSky, but it's clearly an unnecessary holdover from the kei gasoline vehicle. Surely even an electric four-wheel drive vehicle could have a wheel-mounted button?

Not all single-speeders are the same; for example, some modern Mercedes models feature dual-speed transmissions (automatic rather than shiftable). I feel at ease using my Polestar 2 because it has a feature that resembles a gear lever, as seen on an automobile.

Amazon.co.uk : Internal Combustion Engine

An electric vehicle's PRND (park, reverse, neutral, drive) selector is required. B or levels of regeneration are two examples of the supplementary sub-modes found in many. The old Nissan e-NV200, at least, has a gear-lever control that allows you to engage PRNDB (the parking lock is linked to P mechanically, and a solenoid interlock prevents you from accidentally engaging R). Those coming from internal combustion engine (ICE) driving experiences should find the EV easier to adapt to.

Amazon.co.uk : electric vehicles

Take note of how the driver shifts gears using the gear stick in the Land Rover EV commercial (the white car getting dirty). Is my ageing brain causing me to miss something? I thought EVs were one-drive only.

Amazon.co.uk : 2009 Mini Cooper S spark plugs

Greetings, my friend After removing and cleaning the spark plugs, I must admit that they did look alright.

Looks like you might need to swap out the spark plugs. It was the plugs in my Mini Cooper that gave me the same issue.

Within the West Midlands

Could you please tell me where you are based? If you were in the Southwest, you could bring it to and he would take care of it.

To obtain some information, you would have to smoke test the engine and record its data while it is under boost, at idle, and at 3000 revs. These engines are really difficult to diagnose, even with the right equipment, and without it, you are often left with nothing more than a parts cannon.

I just got a mini clubman, and it bogs and makes a deep noise when you accelerate and idling is rough. I replaced the intake manifold and breather pipe and installed a new filter, but the engine is still not performing up to par, although it does run slightly better. Are you able to identify it?

Thank you for your response. I have consulted with our local dealer, but they have given me contradictory advice. I will try adjusting the charging percentages to see if it helps, but I suppose I should be content as long as I consistently get results above 300.

Protecting the battery is less of an issue than the efficiency of the change, which becomes significantly worse above 70%, according to my analysis of the 80% upper limit. I think that's less of a concern with solar power or low-cost home charging.

The recommended range for battery charge is 20–80%, but from what I gather, leaving the battery fully charged for an extended length of time is the only way to cause issues with ac (slow/home) charging to exceed 80%. Truthfully, after three years of driving a 2018 Soul EV—with an indicated range of 130 in the summer and 80 in the winter—I can say that I am grateful that in the winter I won't have to stress about the EV3's range or efficiency. No obvious signs of battery or range degradation have been observed in the Nb Soul EV, which has always been charged to 100%.

We used to get consistent charges and then the range dropped a little; however, we charge to 100% every time, so maybe we should start charging to 80% instead? There are a lot of factors that can affect the range, and I am aware of them. For instance, during the summer (which was exceptionally hot this year), the electric vehicle's range can vary. One day, it will charge to 300 miles, and then around a week later, it will charge to 375 miles, which is the highest range we've experienced. In winter, the range remains the same, but obviously lower due to outside temperatures. I was hoping for a consistent figure, if only by a few percent. I don't mind the accuracy of the car's display and the range driven; if this is the norm, then I can live with it. Fortunately, we don't have to rely on a full 370ish range for long journeys.

I take it you're not interested in "charging capacity" per se, but rather the difference between actual and estimated ranges? It's always an educated guess because it's practically hard to tell what a battery's actual charge level is; instead, it's "calculated" and impacted by numerous factors like temperature, driving style, accessory use, etc. Or the difference between what the charger is reporting as going into car versus the battery capacity/ or what car is reporting? This is because there will be charging losses in the battery and the charger/inverter used in the vehicle. Particularly when using an air conditioner, these can have a major impact.

Thanks for the info! I've taken note of that.

Kia EV3 Long Range (MY25-26) (2024-2026) price and specifications - EV Database

Your summer/winter range difference is not unusual. Check this out for some third-party experience Long Range Kia EV3 (MY25-26) Keep the battery level between 20% and 80% according to general advice; unless you're going on a very long trip, you probably don't need a fully charged battery.

Salutations everyone, With the exception of the ICCU problems I experienced with my previous vehicle, which led to its exchange by the dealer, I have owned a brand new EV3 GT Line S (81.4 kwh) for the past eighteen months. While I understand that charging varies from season to season, I've noticed that the car's range can fluctuate by as much as 70 miles in either summer or winter. This could simply be the car's typical characteristics, but I've never had any problems with it. Is this normal, am I doing something wrong, or is there a trick to getting a more consistent charge? I've tried conditioning the batteries, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. My home charger is an Easee 7.2kw model, and we charge it until it reaches 50 miles of range. We've never used a public charger because our trips aren't long enough to warrant it.