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Incredibly grateful to all who contributed. After nearly three weeks of losing about fifteen miles per day, I disconnected the twelve-volt battery for thirty minutes, and it remained steady for twenty-four hours. I also placed an order for a battery monitor. However, hear this! The dealer was so shocked by my cancellation call that they offered me a job! Just some common sense and a quick web search, I said. Does nothing to improve my opinion of the Kia dealer, who appears to be clueless when it comes to the car's technological aspects.

My heart desires it! I'm waiting for Kia to do something, and the dealer isn't doing anything to help.

You can't; a cold reboot is required on one of the workstations.

If I were an engineer, I'd probably start by fixing the update issue, since it's likely that it's the root cause of the battery problem.

BM2 Bluetooth Battery Monitor 6V-20V. 12V Battery Tester for Car, Campervan, Motorcycle, Boat & Leisure Battery. Wireless Monitor App for iOS & Android : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

To check if the 12v battery is constantly draining, you could purchase one of these monitors. Could the constant attempts to install this update be draining it? The advice isn't very helpful, I'm afraid.

Amazon.co.uk : car battery

https://www.amazon.com/s?ascsubtag=v1-7e312b-90398-3e1ede9b91-k&k=usb+stick+for+car+navigation

The 2025 EV3 GT Line S Long range has been in my possession for seven months. Outside of a few minor issues, I absolutely adore the vehicle. For example, for the past ten to twelve weeks, it has informed me that it is updating the software due to an update. Kia is aware of the problem and is trying to find a solution, but the dealer has no idea what's going on and is completely useless. I can't stop the process to test it with a USB stick because I am halfway through. On a more serious note, I left my car parked in Southampton for thirteen days while I went on a two-week cruise. I know it's bad to leave a car unattended while it's charging, but I managed to get the battery to about 220 miles before I set out. I was astounded to see that the car had a range of 89 miles when I got back. Even though it hadn't gone anywhere, the app showed that its battery life had dropped by almost 60%!?! After getting back home, I noticed that the car is losing 10-15 miles per day while charging. Based on what I've read online, it might be because the main battery is charging the 12v battery more than what's needed. From what I've heard, it can be "reset" by removing the negative terminal from a 12v battery for 30 minutes. Does anyone have any similar experience? There will be a delay of a few days before the vehicle is scheduled for pickup at the dealership. Because I don't know what other consequences there might be, I haven't attempted to disconnect the 12v battery.

Basically, the JLR car amp is no longer providing power. Compared to the regular JLR sub, the deep bass sound is now a million times better. It took a while to get the new speaker set up in the tube and to adjust the head unit's gain and sub settings so that the sound was clear and consistent throughout the volume range.

I opted for a powered tube, which came with its own amplifier. I connected the car's audio sources, fused the battery's permanent live terminal, connected the positive terminal of the epb module to the terminal above the bcm(b), and, of course, connected an earth to the terminal of the battery's body, not the battery itself (because that would be on the wrong side of the bms).

Have you connected an additional amplifier? Surely it wouldn't be too much trouble to use the battery to power the switch using the current connections?

All four of the speaker wires must be lengthened. Two negatives and two positives are present.

The four-prong connector for the subwoofer is actually HD gauge. Uncertain of its purpose, it appears to be four times thicker than "ordinary" automobile wiring. Why do I know? Because I completed the task in my vehicle. I snuck past the vehicle's subwoofer and sought out a tube that rested against the rear seats.

I am grateful. After conducting some research (or rather, consulting ChatGPT 😅), it was recommended to use 14awg oxygen-free copper cable and to construct or purchase an 18mm MDF box with a 32 litre capacity. Beyond the actual tasks at hand, it is clear that I require an additional project...

Given that the original wire probably had very thin insulation that is rated for high temperatures, I don't see why it wouldn't work. However, a cheaper, PVC-covered wire of the same size might have a lower current rating. Technically, the best sound will result from wires that are an exact match (same impedance mainly) because there will be no signal reflections caused by the mismatched join. However, in subwoofer use, you might not even notice the difference. Any possible justification for not extending all of the wires eludes me.

Amazon.co.uk : subwoofer

https://www.amazon.com/s?ascsubtag=v1-38475b-75500-d8fbb0e190-k&k=Meridian+car+sound+system

I, too, am a proud owner of a Meridian sound system, and my subwoofer is mounted in the spare tyre well. I was hoping that some of you experts could tell me if this idea has any chance of succeeding or not. I'm thinking of getting a plain wooden subwoofer box, taking out the current Meridian unit from its home in the large black housing beneath the spare wheel (just the woofer, keep the larger black housing), running new wires—the ones that would normally go to the engine—into the box, and positioning it high inside the trunk. Because I'm sure it will have a more pleasing tone. On the other hand, I'm not sure why or which of the four wires that already protrude from the black casing I should extend. Just wondering if there's a cheaper way to do it myself, or if I should follow Alex's lead and purchase a separate subwoofer setup.

The M badge merely serves as a symbol; the construction of M vehicles is in a different category altogether. Examine this; I still view it occasionally, one of the motivations for purchasing the M4.

BMW 6 Series (G32) - Wikipedia

The B58 engine was utilised in the G32 640i from 2020 to 2023.

The M4 is an impressive and exceedingly rapid vehicle, yet it exceeds my financial capacity. I typically seek vehicles with low mileage, approximately 30,000, and favour authorised dealerships. Currently, the M420i is reasonably priced; what are your thoughts on it? Fortunately, my 2007 650i E63 successfully passed its MOT today; I'm quite pleased with this nearly two-decade-old vehicle.

Every 640 model was equipped with the N55 engine. The 435 and 440 models are equipped with the B58 engine, but I prefer the M240 with the B58 due to its superior speed, increased horsepower, and 300 kg weight advantage, along with the M badge.