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What are the reasons for powered tailboard sluggishness?


FreexPatty

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Hello everyone
According to earlier articles, powered tailgates are a frequent cause of issues with the Evoque.
Our 2014 TD's tailboard (90k klms) is steadily becoming less dependable, therefore I'm wondering whether there's a less costly way to replace both struts with LR parts (AUD$1090 each).

The symptoms vary, but over the past six months, there has been a gradual decline in function; the patient frequently opens, but now rarely to its full height and occasionally not at all.
Both lever and fob activation cause this.
I am aware that a weak battery is frequently cited as the cause, but there are no other indications of battery issues, and I am now observing that the tailboard frequently does not open at all when the car arrives at its destination after a respectable drive, which does not seem to be consistent with a weak battery.
I believe I'm right when I say that the strut action incorporates both pneumatic and electric/spindle driving components, with the latter reducing the oomph needed for the electrics to function.
Is it possible to re-gass the struts?
Here, OEM struts are priced at about AUD$500 per.
Has anyone found success using eBay or other after-market electric strut replacements?
I would be grateful for any other recommendations.

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After a year, the replacement struts I installed from an eBay provider are still in fantastic condition. incredibly simple. And up until the original ones failed, they were on par with the OEMs.

The only problem is that I pre-wrapped the wire in an extra shroud or tape before installation because I thought the wiring shroud was flimsy and prone to splitting.

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Since you say that fitting them is very simple, I would give that a shot. I see some nice-looking ones on eBay for AUD $167 each.
After the fitting, did you need to recalibrate the electronics?


(I also liked the last vehicle wash video.)

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It's completely plug and play and very simple to install.
1) Tailgate
2) Of course, support it.

3) Remove the plastic coverings on both sides of the tailboard (the connection is behind them).
4) Feed the wire out the sides and unplug the old ones.
5) The strut itself comes out with a little tug when the retaining metal spring clip is removed.
6) For the new ones, the same in reverse
7) finished—no programming and everything is in order.

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Particularly the part about no programming, it sounds fantastic.
Are you referring to the full-width inside black trim item when you say "pop off the trim"? …: Everything appears to be in one piece.
I had assumed that the rubber grommets might need to be removed (see picture).

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In your picture on the right, you can see the inset plastic panel. That pops off. Under it, you can access the connection. Simply use a plastic trimmer or anything thin and flexible that isn't made of metal.

Additionally, you don't have to touch the duct at the bottom of your picture. The wires at the top carry all of the control wiring.

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Could you tell me which symptoms made you decide that your struts needed to be replaced?
Even though there are no other indications of a battery shortage, the erratic nature of our tailboard issue—for example, it opened completely this morning but required manual lifting to be fully raised after a 30-minute drive two days ago—leads me to believe that it might actually be an electrical power issue rather than a strut fault.

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