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The W218 Eco mode remains non-functional despite the installation of a new auxiliary battery.


Anabroo

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The model of the car is W218 2016 CLS 220D.

The functionality of my ECO mode ceased earlier this year. I only see the yellow ECO wording on the dashboard and not the green box with inverted writing, indicating that it is not engaged.
Additionally, I observed that the air conditioning system fails to emit cold air even when set to its lowest temperature setting. Furthermore, even when the temperature is set to 20 degrees Celsius, and the surrounding temperature ranges between 18-22 degrees Celsius, I can hear a noise like air passing over the top of a bottle emanating from the vents.

My dealer inspected the air conditioning system and confirmed that there are no issues with it. However, they noted that it does not produce cold air. Instead, it only cools the air to a maximum of 10 degrees below the surrounding temperature. This is peculiar because when I initially acquired the vehicle, it did generate cold air that was capable of numbing your fingers. The same is true for my wife's Nissan Juke.

Regardless, they said that it is the auxiliary battery. I first suspected that a sensor in the heating matrix may be responsible for the ECO mode not meeting the necessary criteria for activation, particularly if it incorrectly perceives that the appropriate ambient temperature has not been reached. However, they were certain that the issue was with the auxiliary battery.

Today, a new auxiliary battery was installed, which incurred a cost of Β£200 for both the components and service.

I am uncertain about the specific actions they have taken, since the ECO mode remains non-functional and the font colour persists as yellow rather than green.

Upon driving home, which took around 30 minutes, I saw that the start/stop function did not activate even once.

I considered the possibility that I should use the battery for a short period of time to ensure optimal performance, although one would question the need of doing so for a completely new battery. I accelerated rapidly while driving on a divided highway. The object remains yellow and inoperable.

Unsatisfied with having spent Β£200 for no result... I am further dissatisfied by the fact that they claimed to have resolved the issue, but it is evident that just starting the ignition proves otherwise.

Do you have any suggestions or thoughts?

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While there is a little possibility that it may be anything else, it is quite unlikely.
Ideally, I would have charged the new batteries before installing it. However, if that was not possible, it may take several days for the cell to reach a sufficient charge level to enable the stop/start function. Additionally, there are many additional conditions that need to be fulfilled for the function to operate.
In my own opinion, I would recommend waiting for a period of around one week before making any more decisions or taking any actions.
Please inform us of the outcome. πŸ‘πŸ»πŸ‘πŸ»πŸ‘πŸ»

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I have recently driven for 20 miles on the highway without using the air conditioning, turning off the screen, and unplugging the USB cords, in the hope that it would provide a boost to the new battery.
The eco indicator on the dashboard is still illuminated in yellow. I will wait for a few days to see the outcome.

It is quite perplexing that when I go to get it, they claim that it is fully repaired and functional, despite strong evidence to the contrary.

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Prior to starting the vehicle, verify the voltage of both the newly installed auxiliary battery and the primary battery.
A completely charged lead acid battery typically registers a voltage of 12.6 volts or higher. However, if you have an AGM battery, which I believe is the case, the voltage reading may be much higher.

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Currently, I find myself in a state of confusion and resentment.

I have returned it to the dealer. After inspecting, they have determined that the primary battery is the issue, since it is only generating 11.6 volts. Furthermore, they anticipated that I would bear the cost of Β£370 or more for a replacement battery and the associated work.

I have engaged in a dispute due to the fact that they billed me for an auxiliary battery and claimed that it resolved the issue, while it did not. The vehicle diagnostics screen on the automobile displays the engine data, indicating that the battery is generating a voltage of 14.7v. However, I am uncertain about the cause of the issue.

We have reached an agreement where I will just cover the cost of the new battery, while they will waive the labour price. However, I am still dissatisfied with having paid Β£200 last week for a repair that was unnecessary.

We will see whether it ultimately resolves the issue with the eco mode.

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It might be prudent to consider purchasing a CTEK Battery Conditioner, namely either the MX5 or MX7 models. Using the CTEK on your automobile is not only more affordable than buying a new battery, but it also extends the lifespan of the battery.
A significant number of individuals on this forum using CTEK.

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It is possible that the auxiliary battery was either damaged or worn out. The alternator produces an output of 14.7 volts to charge the battery. It provides no information on the battery. The battery voltage is measured in the absence of engine operation.
It seems that the primary battery is malfunctioning and likely requires replacement. Is this the authentic version? If such is the case, it has been completed satisfactorily.

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A battery may have a single cell breakdown, resulting in a charging voltage that is accurately measured while the engine is running but drops below the "Fully Charged" threshold level when the engine is turned off. The ECO-drive will only function if the "Fully Charged" status flag is set. However, it is worth noting that this specific kind of cellular malfunction might still allow the vehicle to start smoothly and there will be no indications of alternator issues on the dashboard or any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) being triggered.

An exhaustive diagnostic examination should include a load test, which involves subjecting the system to a brief period of intense strain, imitating the stress experienced during engine cranking. Additionally, it is crucial to measure the battery voltage when the engine is running and all electrical consumers, such as the infotainment system, heated seats, headlights, and air conditioning/fan, are activated at a certain engine RPM. This is done to eliminate any potential issues with the alternator.

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My Range Rover has had a same issue. Despite installing a new battery, the stop-start feature is still not functioning. The dealer advised to increase the amount of driving. I brought it to an Auto Electrician who kept it for a few days, attempting several solutions and allowing it to enter sleep mode before trying again. Discovered a parasitic drain. The issue has been resolved and there have been no more complications. Furthermore, as said before, it is advisable to get a Ctek charger, since all of my vehicles are equipped with one.

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I had the same issue and resolved it by installing a pristine primary battery, which I acquired at a cost of Β£139 from Tayna. The solution proved effective immediately.

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The stop/start feature on my 2013 204 works well. I believe it is still using the original batteries, and I always deactivate the stop/start function.

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I just changed my primary battery for the same cause. The cost was Β£161, including delivery, and I opted for a Bosch battery. The voltage of my old battery is 12.3 volts.

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whether you own a trickle charger, consider using it to charge the battery slowly overnight. Then, measure the voltage the following morning to see whether this approach yields the desired outcome.

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