Changing the subwoofer's location

[Videoman]

I, too, am a proud owner of a Meridian sound system, and my subwoofer is mounted in the spare tyre well.

I was hoping that some of you experts could tell me if this idea has any chance of succeeding or not.

I'm thinking of getting a plain wooden subwoofer box, taking out the current Meridian unit from its home in the large black housing beneath the spare wheel (just the woofer, keep the larger black housing), running new wires—the ones that would normally go to the engine—into the box, and positioning it high inside the trunk. Because I'm sure it will have a more pleasing tone.

On the other hand, I'm not sure why or which of the four wires that already protrude from the black casing I should extend.

Just wondering if there's a cheaper way to do it myself, or if I should follow Alex's lead and purchase a separate subwoofer setup.

[Videoman]

https://www.amazon.com/s?ascsubtag=v1-38475b-75500-d8fbb0e190-k&k=Meridian+car+sound+system

[Videoman]

Amazon.co.uk : subwoofer

[Cincoon]

Given that the original wire probably had very thin insulation that is rated for high temperatures, I don't see why it wouldn't work. However, a cheaper, PVC-covered wire of the same size might have a lower current rating. Technically, the best sound will result from wires that are an exact match (same impedance mainly) because there will be no signal reflections caused by the mismatched join. However, in subwoofer use, you might not even notice the difference.

Any possible justification for not extending all of the wires eludes me.

[Videoman]

I am grateful. After conducting some research (or rather, consulting ChatGPT 😅), it was recommended to use 14awg oxygen-free copper cable and to construct or purchase an 18mm MDF box with a 32 litre capacity.

Beyond the actual tasks at hand, it is clear that I require an additional project...

[Mindumer]

The four-prong connector for the subwoofer is actually HD gauge. Uncertain of its purpose, it appears to be four times thicker than "ordinary" automobile wiring.

Why do I know? Because I completed the task in my vehicle. I snuck past the vehicle's subwoofer and sought out a tube that rested against the rear seats.

[Mindumer]

All four of the speaker wires must be lengthened. Two negatives and two positives are present.

[Videoman]

Have you connected an additional amplifier? Surely it wouldn't be too much trouble to use the battery to power the switch using the current connections?

[Mindumer]

I opted for a powered tube, which came with its own amplifier. I connected the car's audio sources, fused the battery's permanent live terminal, connected the positive terminal of the epb module to the terminal above the bcm(b), and, of course, connected an earth to the terminal of the battery's body, not the battery itself (because that would be on the wrong side of the bms).

[Mindumer]

Basically, the JLR car amp is no longer providing power.

Compared to the regular JLR sub, the deep bass sound is now a million times better. It took a while to get the new speaker set up in the tube and to adjust the head unit's gain and sub settings so that the sound was clear and consistent throughout the volume range.