LunaCraze

Both of you, I appreciate your responses 🙂

Hello there, Can you tell me how the E350s with the latest CGI engines, starting around 2009, look? Can you trust them? The early automobiles had problems with the balancing shaft and other things. Is there anything I should be aware of? My son could be on the hunt for one.

The dealer's price of £450 is just absurd. For £300, I was able to locate an independent. Still awaiting a response from another.

We have driven 32,000 miles in our 6-year-old E-niro. You have received a service warning. Do I need to change the battery coolant? Is anyone familiar with the estimated price for this? Would much appreciate any assistance.

This concludes the PCV repair. I had to get a new air intake pipe, so I bought an aftermarket one. It wasn't perfect, but it worked. The only thing was, I had to reamed out the PCV port so it was bigger. The oil leak persists, thus it appears I'll have to perform the oil seal job. It was out of the question for me to try removing the light plug because it had cracked in half. Oh no. After the coolant temperature reaches 60C, the DPF actively regenerates, which is why there is smoke. For a little period, it is emitting a considerable amount of white smoke. It appears like there's a problem with the gloss plug and the post injection in that cylinder. The gasoline is merely vaporising instead of igniting, which might explain the heavy smoke. For keeping tabs on the soot level and differential pressure in the DPF, I've been making good use of an Autel diagnostics tool. While parked, it can also activate a forced regeneration. Even after 10 minutes of trying, the exhaust temperature remains below 350 degrees, thus clearly it isn't working. The glow plug is probably at issue, and the cooling effect of the vaporised gasoline is to blame. According to the error code, I've experienced several DPF problems where the soot concentration became too high for regeneration. Following this, active regen was hindered while driving about with the fuel light on. Because it needs to clean the code before it can try aggressive regen again, it becomes troublesome. Lucky for us, a journey along the French highways has done a great job of clearing the DPF. In order to prevent it from filling up again due to the low speed island driving, I need to get that glow plug corrected. Has anyone ever tried smoke from typical regen? whether so, can you tell me whether my idea makes sense? I am grateful.

Excellent response. I am really grateful. Some sound pearls of wisdom are sprinkled throughout. The van's mileage is 127,000. The model year is 2010. A few random receipts are all it has in the place of a service book. The air filter's condition and the amount of unfixed problems indicate that it has been ignored for some time.

In order to get a more suitable vehicle for the family and put an end to the struggle with rust, I sold my beloved VW T3 transporter day-van. I was really surprised by the Brabus Vito's silky powertrain when I bought one up locally. Our goal is to turn this Dualiner into a camper by fixing the mechanical issues. As a positive frame of reference, working on this vehicle is an improvement over the transporter. I have initiated a thread to record the process of restoring this car. This car has practically all the typical flaws, according to my study and fiddling! Present status: 1. DPF clogged; recently had it cleaned by a professional; removed from car. 2. The compressor input seal is either leaking or split, and the plastic pipe has deteriorated; I am now awaiting new orange seals and am intrigued by a silicone repair kit, but I am unable to find a particular vito (not bat wing) type. Thirdly, there's a likely oil cooler leak; the garage may fix it. 4. Replacement kit is on its way for the PCV valve diaphragm that split. 5. We have not fully determined the cause of the leak from the trans oil cooler line. 6. New PCV heater plug ordered by the garage due to a broken one. Repairs made using epoxy putty and new facia and vents purchased from Amazon were necessary to mend the broken flaps on the cabin heater and the collapsed button panels. 8. I'm waiting to install a new tie rod at both ends, as well as ard bushes and a new tie rod for the front axle, which is knocking. It's likely an inner tie rod. 9. During the second part of the warmup, there was white smoke (or blue, it was impossible to tell) that persisted even after I disconnected the PCV; this is my main concern right now. It's possible that the PCV left some oil in the intercooler or elsewhere. 10. The oil has coated the swirl flap motor. However, I believe it is effective. 11. I'll have a garage take care of the seized glow plug and the oil cooler simultaneously. My current enquiries are: Is it possible to use the silicone repair kits made for Mercedes turbo inlets with the airbox design of the Vito and Sprinter with a single filter? What else may be causing the white smoke behaviour? Is there anything else I need to check for? After I patch the known leaks, I'm considering adding a UV dye to the engine oil to see if the oil cooler is leaking. Can somebody tell me where I can find this? Is there a way to take the turbo off a Vito? Back there, it's rather crowded! Did I anticipate how tough it would be to drop the engine? Thank you, everyone

It's a brand-new function; I can't say for sure when it debuted, but I think it was with the release of MY24. I tried both the approach unlocking and the walk away locking options, but I ended up disabling both because it was really annoying whenever I washed the car and would unlock again if I was near it with the key in my pocket. I also assumed it didn't double lock the car because it didn't beep, which is my preferred method of security.

I’ll admit, I was one of the more sceptical ones earlier in this thread glad it worked out for you. That Tucson is a great choice.

Bank transfer before you’ve even seen the car would normally be a warning sign.That’s how most scams operate. Money first, promise delivery, then silence only a handful of proper online vehicle retailers manage remote sales transparently, and even then people are cautious. I’d want everything clearly written in a contract.

I visited MB today, and they concur that the driver's door glass requires adjustment to prevent the quarter light from leaking. It requires two hours for sorting.

Primary driver's door, with a leak from the quarter lamp at the rear.

Upon further investigation, the foundational measurement should be 30mm from the window edge to the door trim. The passenger measures 25mm. The movement is influenced by the curvature of the glass, causing it to ascend as well. This effectively demonstrates the location of the problem. Does not resolve the quarter pane issue; I can accept that.

2017 model makeover, 53,000 miles. I am unfamiliar with the concept of a roof service; however, I applied silicone oil to the seals and supported the roof during the process.

I get water ingress during rainfall, with droplets falling on my arm and a trickle on the back window. Only the driver's side is problematic; the passenger side is functioning properly. I believe I have appropriately completed the glass reset. I can place my fingernail at the top of the glass on the passenger side. I recently conducted another test that involved measuring with a tape from the top of the trim to the middle of the MB star on both sides. 52mm passenger, 50mm driver, both constructed from glass. I suppose the glass is adjustable. Capturing an accurate photograph with the camera is challenging, yet the concept is conveyed.

Which hose must I detach to introduce air and expel the majority of the coolant from the system? Clearly, when I proceed with this, the thermostat will be closed; hence, I may need to detach multiple hoses surrounding the thermostat housing. Which hoses would facilitate this process?

I utilised a cordless blower in the expansion tank until no fluid emerged from the drain faucet; nonetheless, only approximately 3-4 litres were expelled.

Can someone inform me of my error? I am attempting to empty the cooling system, with the heater set to high. I have opened the drain tap at the bottom of the radiator and removed the cap from the expansion tank, nevertheless only approximately 3-4 litres have been expelled. What additional steps should I take?

There may be an issue; nevertheless, the sensation of speed between cars will likely be minimal. The X6 has four-wheel drive, which may affect its initial acceleration. As previously said, a thorough diagnostic is necessary. No competent remapper would undertake a remap without doing a comprehensive BMW software problem diagnosis.

Since Stevensons relocated to Larkfield, we have acquired some of their nearby clientele.

Greetings and gratitude. I acknowledge your remark, but the vehicle is very satisfactory on its own. It is applicable just while towing. The towing capability is exceptional.

My supposition was based on the fact that the caravan is equipped with ALKO ATC. Consequently, I disabled the SRS via the onboard display. The caravan weighs 1803 kg and has a dual axle, whereas the car's specifications indicate a capacity of 2100 kg; nevertheless, it is now operating at about 92%, which is suboptimal. This is a new tow vehicle, since I previously hauled with huge SUVs. I have significantly enhanced it by meticulous packing, since the caravan dominated the vehicle. Nonetheless, I like the vehicle but need a resolution to the limp mode problem.

My 2013 350 AMG/Sport Est has shown an intermittent issue occurring about every 200 miles while towing our huge caravan. The trailer seems to pull the automobile backward on the road. The safety system inoperative warning appears, resulting in limp mode activation. Cease operations and resume; everything should function well for a further 200 kilometers approximately. No codes have been recorded. Attempted to deactivate the SRS system; nonetheless, it persisted in its operation. I sometimes downshift and maintain higher RPMs on travels to address any EGR/DPF issues. Unfortunate outcome 😞 I appreciate the automobile; but, I may need to contemplate an other tow bar if I cannot resolve the issue. The tow bar was installed by a professional, despite his extensive prior experience.

On the verge of placing an order. Have anybody reported superior experiences with Sachs or Bilstein springs? I assume they are superior than the less expensive Febi or Klein variants. I have decided to replace the bottom shims, the top mounts, and the drop links as well, and I will arrange for a wheel alignment upon completion.

Thank you. That is really helpful. Your front is much elevated compared to mine and is about at the height mine was before to the replacement of the front springs. I am now persuaded that I was sold the incorrect springs, which likely accounts for the increased harshness of the front suspension since that time. The impact is likely exacerbated by my 19-inch wheels. I will get normal specification springs and replace them to restore the appropriate ride height, after which I will consider exchanging the 19-inch wheels for a pair of 18-inch wheels.