TigerDrummer

It seems to me that the teach-in approach entails installing a new Nox sensor, teaching it the necessary parameters, and then relearn the Adblue values. Does the Adblue need to clear codes and be driven on a quality highway before it realises it's working?

It has the MB dealer history up until 2021 and the specialist history after that, although I'm not sure if the car has actually had it. What was the release date of the update?

Hey there, buddy! I'm afraid you're quite right. The very cheap price for a premium plus with relatively few kilometres makes me think you're right, but I was ready to face the repercussions of the private sale nevertheless. Yes, I did scan it with an iCarsense MBv4.0 in regards to the malfunction. At first, it returned the P229F error code for Nox sensor 2 in bank 1. I hoped it was because the car had been sitting in the cold for a while, so I cleared it. The dreaded Adblue countdown was triggered three days later when the issue returned. I will do the diagnostic procedure on the same tool as the Nox and Adblue, and hopefully it will fix it. I will then blast it down the highway. I appreciate your response.

I'm going to test it out tomorrow and see how it goes. The threads will be inevitably messed up by me. Is anyone familiar with the bung's thread pitch? I will then apply a thread chaser to it.

Greetings to all, This is my first post, but I've been a lurker here for quite some time. Because this forum has been an absolute treasure trove of helpful hints, I'm coming to you for assistance. My second W212, after upgrading from a 220 Bluetec, was purchased around three weeks ago; the model is the 2016 E350 Bluetec. I adore the platform and could picture myself driving this car indefinitely, but suddenly the dreaded Nox problems have surfaced. The low mileage of the car (about 55,000 miles from new) likely clogging up the sensor. This led to a malfunctioning sensor 2 (following scr) and an Adblue gauge that is currently reading 400 miles. I figured I'd give it a go today to replace the sensor that I bought for a pitiful £175 on eBay. The nut hasn't budged an inch, and I've gotten a little closer after seven hours of perspiration, cursing, bleeding, and shivering on the road. I used the standard fare of penetrating fluid, a Nox sensor socket, and some manual labour, but to no avail. Proceeded to mapp torch, but got nowhere. Shocking it, turning it crimson, and then submerging it in icy water. Completely nonexistent. I used a Nox socket, a 22mm spanner, a pipe wrench, a hammer, and a chisel, but none of them worked. I have exhausted every available daylight and profanity, so tomorrow I will try again. As a last option, I will use a 6-sided impact socket to cut the sensor immediately above the nut. Going at it with a breaker bar as there isn't enough space to get an impact driver. Is anyone else thinking of doing anything else before I rip the bung, cut the threads, or blow my exhaust?

By the way, does anyone know how to turn off the warning sign that flashes the speed limit? By pressing the speed sign on the screen or holding down mute, I can easily turn off the beeps, however this doesn't stop the speed limit sign on the dash and HUD from flashing at me. Extremely irritating (but aren't all these systems exactly that?)

Yes, it was. The manufacturer offered a significant discount (perhaps because Peugeot was promoting the PHEV concept to the general public four years prior). a sizable discount from the vendor and an additional thousand dollars for initially purchasing the PC. Overall, the residuals were wrecked, but the monthly payment was quite low.

My Pug has a few thousand dollars in negative equity. In part because of the absurd £47k new sticker price and the £17k reduction I was able to obtain! However, because it is quiet, comfortable, and well-specced, it is a really simple object to live with. It also has a lovely interior.

No, the car's tires are sensible. I believe the suspension on my specification is lowered by an additional 10mm over the typical A35, and it might simply run out of suspension travel very rapidly. This in addition to the extremely rigid setup (clearly for more "funs") I experience the loud thuds. I don't think it will be really beneficial to the car in the long run. Over the next several days, I'll examine the top of the suspension struts. Thank you.

For my 3008 PHEV, I was searching for a replacement hatchback—ideally one with 4x4 capability. With two electric motors and a 1.6-liter petrol engine, the 3008 was remarkably fast in a straight line. Despite being extremely gently sprung and "entertaining" in a corner, it generated 300 horsepower overall. Anyway, after considering switching back to a warm/hot hatch, I decided to focus on the BMW M135 and the A35. At least for the specifications I desired, the Golf R and its siblings were too costly on the present offers and with the existing amount of negotiable reduction. The M135 is a really well-made car that costs almost the same as the A35 once the specifications are the identical and you take advantage of the fantastic TRL savings at Berry Motors (£6k+). The car promises FSD, so it's odd that the suspension has a bouncy, thumpy quality despite the engine's lacklustre performance. Maybe the suspension isn't tuned for our terrible roads? In any case, I was certain after a brief drive in the A35 that the handling and engine sounded considerably more enjoyable. There is a sense of occasion that the M135 does not have, even though the road noise is considerably more obvious and the build quality may not be as high. In addition, I can genuinely grasp the steering wheel of the A35—why, BMW, why? After three weeks, I've driven little over 1,000 miles, and I'm earning a startling 38–42 mpg on a motorway run while mostly staying below the speed limits. Unfortunately, even though the salesperson and brochure claimed that it had a 66-liter tank, this is untrue; otherwise, it would have a reserve of roughly 4-5 gallons. I'm growing accustomed to the annoyance of all the nanny systems that you have to turn off every time. I've even started to enjoy it and have paid to have the built-in camera in cars turned on for trip recording (sadly, you have to start the recording every time you start, but it's not the end of the world considering the faff of turning off the beeps and bongs on the other things before you start anyway). I'm starting to figure out how to get past the car's fairly sharp "tip in" when you pull off (I believe that's the correct description). I return the engine to its most basic setting because I believe it's the hybrid punching in and about town. This lessens the typical shunting these gearboxes create and aids in slow-speed driving with the DCT. However, I adore the handling. I'm eager for warmer weather and dry roads so we can have a good blast because the car feels incredibly rigid. Even though the farts and parps are somewhat artificial, it sounds somewhat fruity. Well, I think so far so good. However, I do have a query for other current version owners. The A35 feels like it has struck a large pothole when I drive over a slightly sunken drain cover, the kind that would typically create a minor thud in a standard car. The car shudders and you, along with everyone else in the car, cringe. I thought I might have blown a tyre or buckled a wheel after hitting a few potholes while driving in London recently (dark night and heavy rain is my explanation). It's pretty shocking, and to prove that I'm not the only one who isn't used to a car with firm springs, I've owned an M3 (G80) and an M4 (F82) that were both fairly firm, had subframes bolted to the body, and didn't have rubber bushings, so they're similar to the A35 in that regard. Despite my lifelong love of petrol, I can't recall owning a vehicle that has crashed more than this one. Have the Transport 'pucks/blocks' been retained, may I ask? Does anyone know if a fast dip under the tire arch should allow you to glimpse them? Or maybe this is just how the automobile is configured. It's the only significant complaint I've had about the car thus far, and its positive features far exceed its drawbacks. At the moment, I don't regret picking it over the M135 at all.

Has anyone experienced this? I have seen that it could be attributed to various factors; nevertheless, are there any prevalent issues?

All is normal. Mine was new in March 1937, first decreasing to the high 20s. Summer exceeded the quoted figure by 38. I have reduced my consumption to 26, but by turning off the heating and driving steadily, I can achieve 6 miles for every 2 indicated on the display. My former Mercedes achieved a consistent 50 miles per gallon in summer, but might decline to as low as 12 miles per gallon in winter.

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Progress report on this discussion. Ultimately, I did not purchase it. The photographs were rather flattering, and the vehicle was positioned on its haunches at the near side rear (NSR). It seems that one suspension airbag and compressor were replaced last year, whereas the NSR bag was not. Perhaps it is an airline issue. He did propose a reduction of £250. Given the deteriorated state and the absence of proof about the replacement of oil seals (although I did not see any indications, as access underneath them is restricted), I opted not to take the chance. There will undoubtedly be others.

Fortunately, none of them has yet arrived in Devon; nevertheless, I own an A3 hybrid as an option.