PopeyeR

Primarily, the "dashboard error codes" are not shown on the dashboard. The Check Engine Light may or may not illuminate; the ECU records several problem codes, however not all trigger the CEL. The mechanic used a diagnostic computer to get the codes from the ECU records. Secondly, you have been requested to remit $3,000, and your vehicle has undergone certain component replacements. Seemingly without success. The first favourable outcome, in my opinion, is attributable to a complete system reset rather than the component replacements. I would consent to pay an additional $3,000 only if I were refunded my prior $3,000, since my intention was to rectify a problem rather than to replace unrelated components. Clearly, do this action upon retrieving the vehicle rather than before to its relinquishment. A malfunctioning starter motor might also exhibit failures under various conditions, particularly when attempting to hot-start the vehicle after a brief parking interval. The circumstances are almost identical to auto start-stop, but with some exceptions, such as the drive selection remaining in drive rather than park. If you do not get this with hot restarts, I doubt it is a starting motor problem. Ultimately, without a corresponding set of codes pertaining to the issue, we can only engage in speculation until someone has had the same problem. The standard procedure involves resetting the error codes, operating the vehicle until a fault transpires, and thereafter retrieving the error codes, which will provide a more in-depth analysis of the problem. I suspect a communication issue between the engine and gearbox ECU.

If you are referencing the P in the square at the bottom left of the speedometer, it signifies that the parking sensors are operational and assessing if there is a sufficient space to park. It vanishes upon accelerating.

The light will have recorded a defect in the car's memory, even if the dashboard EML indicator turns off. It’s definitely up to you whether you reject the automobile, but if it’s ran with no troubles for 2 weeks (I’m thinking the car isn’t new) . Subsequently, malfunctions occur in vehicles. Who can predict that the next vehicle you purchase would have a defect within three weeks? What will your course of action be then? Do you own a Mercedes Mobilio breakdown coverage? They will respond and diagnose the issue.

However, it would undoubtedly impact performance or provide some type of indication, would it not? I lack mechanical expertise, although I would anticipate it to be an essential element that would display more symptoms.

Greetings everyone, I have frequently posted about my E87, which has developed a sound when I rapidly release the clutch, causing the car to jolt forward, or when I accelerate and then release the pedal in the first two gears, producing a clang sound, akin to something striking the vehicle. There is no loss of performance, and I have attempted various remedies to resolve the issue. My technician has suggested that the issue may be the mass flywheel; nevertheless, it has persisted for many months, producing a sound akin to metal striking metal. I was informed that it may be a heat shield around the exhaust; however, it has been tightened, and the issue persists. The vehicle produces the noise only when the torque engages and there is a quick acceleration of any kind. The sound seems to emanate from the back right section of the vehicle, or even from the center. I want to get it mapped, but this is deterring me. It is a BMW E87 118D from 2009, with 26,000 miles and a complete service history.

Thank you, I will verify.

The BMW 318i, specifically the E46 model, is experiencing overheating issues and the radiator fan is not functioning. I replaced the lower radiator hose coolant temperature sensor, but, the vehicle is still experiencing overheating issues and the radiator cooling fan remains inactive. What is the potential issue in this situation?

The material used is not genuine leather and is prone to wear, especially if the user tends to fidget, such as my wife.

Presumably, this is due to their lack of access to the central computer of MB and their inability to program a new key for the automobile via the approved method.

I cannot definitively confirm its absence, but it has been around two decades since I last saw an automobile equipped with such a feature, leading me to speculate that it is unlikely to be there. It is customary to drain the radiator from the lowest point in the cooling circuit, which is often the bottom. In the case of loud automobiles, this is the standard. After draining, cleanse the radiator using a hose and then use distilled water. Finally, refill the radiator.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Tarakan.ogg

Does it resemble this?

I have not encountered any tremors in any mode. However, I did notice that my device became hazy and gradually cleaned up. I informed the dealer about my preference for utilising it when I took my vehicle in this week for SOTA upgrades, and they fitted a replacement. Nevertheless, I will diligently observe any vibrations upon receiving the automobile, ideally today.

It is progressing well; I have had it for about a year. I have not made much progress on it since the suspension work, since other tasks have taken precedence. However, I want to resume working on it near the end of the summer, if everything goes well.

Truly a victim of life-altering circumstances. Since the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, I transitioned to remote work and have not returned to the office, resulting in a significant reduction in my annual miles. The automobile is no longer suitable for daily use due to many issues, but that is not an issue as we have the wife's Kuga for practical purposes. However, I really dislike driving it. This implies the presence of a second functional vehicle, namely the Superb waggon, which becomes more difficult to rationalise when there is already a KTM in the garage. The outdoor living arrangement required maintenance, which was intended to be done before COVID. However, due to changing circumstances, it became impractical, necessitating its removal. Not all hope is lost, as the wife has come to the realisation that she too loves driving the Skoda. She believes that when the time comes, the Kuga should be substituted with a smaller vehicle. I see it as referring to an R231 model. After life becomes less hectic, I want to meticulously document my assortment of 129 more items and components (including some AMG components) for potential buyers.

There is an empty space in the driveway tonight, a space that has been filled for over half of my life. The SL that joined our possession in 2003 has departed after being in our control for 21 years. Several other automobiles have been introduced and discontinued throughout that period (including a 202 and a 211), but this particular car consistently remained present. And now, all of a sudden, it no longer is; it seems incongruous, like an absent family member or cherished pet. It is remarkable how automobiles can have such an effect on a person.

The bumper has little adjustability. The fascia and spoiler include additional features. Both components have shims that may be inadvertently misplaced or correctly repositioned. These shims can also be "stretched" by applying force and then maintained in place while tightening. Additionally, the lights have a ball and cup type fitting that can be adjusted by winding it in and out. However, as long as you avoid disturbing these fittings, there should be no need for any further adjustments. However, I made some adjustments to mine and managed to get a better fit than before, without removing anything.

The rear bumper is not too rigid. Familiarity with the exact locations of all the screws. Some objects are deeply embedded and concealed. In order to remove the wheel liners, you will want a jack or lift. The jack that comes with the vehicle is suitable for removing the wheel liners, but it becomes rather risky if you need to work underneath the car. An electric driver is essential unless you are willing to devote an additional hour on each side manually rotating the approximately one hundred bolts. Overall, I am capable of completing it in around 90 minutes, and I have successfully done so on three occasions.

Yes. In my particular situation, with the Top Gear Exhaust, the valves were clearly visible behind the rear vents, making it simple to see that one valve was not closing correctly. Almost, but not completely. If the severity of your vacuum leak is significant, it should trigger a Check Engine Light (CEL). However, in my situation, the leak must have been below the threshold to activate the CEL. Additionally, while you are in that location (with the bumper off), seize the opportunity to thoroughly clean and polish your exhaust tips. If not, I can provide you with examples that I have tidied up

Hello, people. Requesting aid and direction... I just got my first-generation V8, having purchased it in March. Before collecting it, I had Ricky from @REPerformance put a Quicksilver titanium valved exhaust on the vehicle. Endearing ownership. During my last journey, I saw a malfunction in the valves. I could not detect any change in sound throughout the drive, therefore proving that they were really not functioning. The blue LED on both key fobs indicates that they are working properly and are effectively transmitting signals to the controller in the engine compartment. I have a high level of confidence that the car will start, given that it is a cold start and the valves are in the open position. The engine produces a significant amount of noise initially, but as the engine speed reaches about 800rpm, everything seems to be functioning well. However, I have a suspicion that the valves may still be in the open position. Pressing the button to close them has no result. I have detached the engine bay cover on the right-hand side (RHS) where the controller and solenoid are situated. When I push the fob to close the valves, I can audibly detect a clicking sound, but there is no visible movement occurring. The sound is audibly produced near the controller and the solenoid. Nevertheless, I am unsure. Does the 'click' originate from the controller or the solenoid? They are really near to one other. I have conducted a visual examination of the vacuum lines that are visible on the top section of the engine compartment. However, I have not yet conducted a thorough investigation of the inner workings of the vacuum lines in connection to the exhaust valves.

Oh my, this topic is quite frightening!

Is this a transaction conducted by an individual or a professional dealer? If the latter, may it be rectified as a component of the sale?

With the price reduction, the likelihood of success has increased. Is there any possibility for further negotiation? The car's hood is not aesthetically pleasing, but it is a unique and desirable vehicle. Despite the heavy mileage, it is hoped that it will find a suitable buyer. Touchwood

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202310283431183?polaAffiliate=isis&utm_source=RoEye&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_campaign=HELP&utm_content=Skimbit Ltd.&utm_term=Performance

Additionally, it is being promoted in AT, with a price tag of £16,499. Initially, the price was around £19,995.