PopeyeR

Vargalant has exceptional reliability, and the ball joints were impressive. It is certainly worthwhile to attempt, since you will save around $4,500 initially (or about $2,500 even after the reduction). Additionally, be aware that success tales are published on this topic. Heating may be the answer; consider trying it. In the worst-case scenario, sell the ball joints and get a significant discount from Audi.

We attempted to proceed, but were unable since the old ball joints were too tight, prompting the independent shop to refrain from applying any force owing to the heightened danger of breaking the whole wishbone. It is important to mention that I am uncertain whether they attempted to heat the ball joint first; I would presume they did not, since I discovered this information later via this forum. Subsequently pursued the whole M14 V10 conversion at a 50% discount via Audi.

As previously said, I believe the glass remains same before and after the LCI. Are you cognisant of the discernible border around the perimeter of the autodim mirror glass? Upon close examination of your mirrors or the links, you may see a faint greyish border around the glass; this is absent in non-autodimming models.

and a another one for £75... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186633417984?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338774556&toolid=10001&customid=130832X1595858X2ccea785b1a0a89982c051fb592e9a21

This is a pre-LCI model priced at £80: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276448412032?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338774556&toolid=10001&customid=130832X1595858X57110441aa8fcd7dde5828e55a6629ed

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=FR11-EUR-06-2013-F10-BMW-530i&mg=51&sg=07&diagId=51_7724&q=51167251583

Upon discovering that one of my autodim mirrors had shattered, I purchased a whole mirror from eBay that was not advertised as autodim, resulting in a lower price. I replaced the glass and then sold the remaining components for a profit exceeding the initial cost of the mirror. Before or after LCI? Despite realoem.com indicating that the glass is same

Grounding strap? Or a malfunctioning starting motor, perhaps?

What was the outcome?

I assume the L461 has a fairly similar configuration. I would stabilise the plug using foam secured by a rubber rope and attach it to prevent resonance.

An adept ECU tuner (remapper) may invert the operation of the button.

If your independent mechanic has a JLR-compatible code reader (a generic code reader retrieves just normal OBD2 codes, but a JLR-compatible reader also offers a compilation of proprietary JLR codes that extend beyond the basic OBD2 standard), instruct him to read and analyse the codes. Their association with mileage allows for a clear identification of the cutoff after "fixed by dealer." Publish all of them subsequent to the resolution of the matter.

Primarily, the "dashboard error codes" are not shown on the dashboard. The Check Engine Light may or may not illuminate; the ECU records several problem codes, however not all trigger the CEL. The mechanic used a diagnostic computer to get the codes from the ECU records. Secondly, you have been requested to remit $3,000, and your vehicle has undergone certain component replacements. Seemingly without success. The first favourable outcome, in my opinion, is attributable to a complete system reset rather than the component replacements. I would consent to pay an additional $3,000 only if I were refunded my prior $3,000, since my intention was to rectify a problem rather than to replace unrelated components. Clearly, do this action upon retrieving the vehicle rather than before to its relinquishment. A malfunctioning starter motor might also exhibit failures under various conditions, particularly when attempting to hot-start the vehicle after a brief parking interval. The circumstances are almost identical to auto start-stop, but with some exceptions, such as the drive selection remaining in drive rather than park. If you do not get this with hot restarts, I doubt it is a starting motor problem. Ultimately, without a corresponding set of codes pertaining to the issue, we can only engage in speculation until someone has had the same problem. The standard procedure involves resetting the error codes, operating the vehicle until a fault transpires, and thereafter retrieving the error codes, which will provide a more in-depth analysis of the problem. I suspect a communication issue between the engine and gearbox ECU.

If you are referencing the P in the square at the bottom left of the speedometer, it signifies that the parking sensors are operational and assessing if there is a sufficient space to park. It vanishes upon accelerating.

The light will have recorded a defect in the car's memory, even if the dashboard EML indicator turns off. It’s definitely up to you whether you reject the automobile, but if it’s ran with no troubles for 2 weeks (I’m thinking the car isn’t new) . Subsequently, malfunctions occur in vehicles. Who can predict that the next vehicle you purchase would have a defect within three weeks? What will your course of action be then? Do you own a Mercedes Mobilio breakdown coverage? They will respond and diagnose the issue.

However, it would undoubtedly impact performance or provide some type of indication, would it not? I lack mechanical expertise, although I would anticipate it to be an essential element that would display more symptoms.

Greetings everyone, I have frequently posted about my E87, which has developed a sound when I rapidly release the clutch, causing the car to jolt forward, or when I accelerate and then release the pedal in the first two gears, producing a clang sound, akin to something striking the vehicle. There is no loss of performance, and I have attempted various remedies to resolve the issue. My technician has suggested that the issue may be the mass flywheel; nevertheless, it has persisted for many months, producing a sound akin to metal striking metal. I was informed that it may be a heat shield around the exhaust; however, it has been tightened, and the issue persists. The vehicle produces the noise only when the torque engages and there is a quick acceleration of any kind. The sound seems to emanate from the back right section of the vehicle, or even from the center. I want to get it mapped, but this is deterring me. It is a BMW E87 118D from 2009, with 26,000 miles and a complete service history.

Thank you, I will verify.

The BMW 318i, specifically the E46 model, is experiencing overheating issues and the radiator fan is not functioning. I replaced the lower radiator hose coolant temperature sensor, but, the vehicle is still experiencing overheating issues and the radiator cooling fan remains inactive. What is the potential issue in this situation?

The material used is not genuine leather and is prone to wear, especially if the user tends to fidget, such as my wife.

Presumably, this is due to their lack of access to the central computer of MB and their inability to program a new key for the automobile via the approved method.

I cannot definitively confirm its absence, but it has been around two decades since I last saw an automobile equipped with such a feature, leading me to speculate that it is unlikely to be there. It is customary to drain the radiator from the lowest point in the cooling circuit, which is often the bottom. In the case of loud automobiles, this is the standard. After draining, cleanse the radiator using a hose and then use distilled water. Finally, refill the radiator.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Tarakan.ogg

Does it resemble this?