SlayNeo

Deflate functions effectively until it reaches the bump stops.

It is evident that the voltages on one side are exhibiting an opposite direction compared to the other side. Based on the content of this video

Greetings, everyone - Require assistance in identifying and resolving the problems with my 2011 TDv6 L320. Recently, I have been experiencing recurring air suspension failures for the last several months. I had sporadic occurrences of an orange suspension fault. If the speed exceeds 65 kilometres per hour for more than 20 seconds, the vehicle enters a red suspension fault mode and lowers to the bump stops. I had sporadic problems with the back right height sensor, so I replaced it using real-time data and the Thingdiag tool. Additionally, I replaced the front right height sensor due to observed sporadic malfunctions with this particular sensor. I have also thoroughly cleaned both the front and rear valve blocks, which were somewhat soiled but in satisfactory condition. Indications - as already said I am seeing sporadic orange suspension faults while driving at speeds over 65km/h for more than 20 seconds. I am experiencing a red suspension fault that causes the car to lower to the bump stops. When I attempt to activate the access height mode, the car lowers and then quickly switches to extended height mode. I have been trying to perform a height calibration using the thinkdiag tool, but I have been unable to successfully complete this process (measuring heights from the centre of the hubcap to the wheel arch). I have reason to believe that the measures exceed the permitted range, however I am uncertain. Specifically, the front left and front right measurements are 436mm and 435mm respectively, while the rear measurements are 483mm and 473mm. I have captured a real-time screen recording of the voltage readings from each height sensor. Below, you can see - From 0 to 10 seconds on the graph, the automobile is initially positioned at its standard height. The readings are without variation or fluctuation. I plotted a graph for a duration of 10 to 15 seconds, after which I switched the automobile into access mode. The voltage of the front left and rear left increases, while the voltage of the rear right and front right decreases. This is likely the problem. The polarity of the voltages on one side is reversed as the automobile changes its elevation. The graph shows a duration of 15-20 seconds. After a short period of time, the go car transitions into extended height mode. During this transition, the voltages seen are opposite to the initial voltages observed when the vehicle entered access height mode. The graph shows a duration of 25-50 seconds, followed by a period of no change in height when the automobile is in its typical height mode. At the 50-70 second mark, the car is switched to off-road height mode. Graph for a duration of 70-90 seconds, during which the car is switched to its standard height mode.

I have no knowledge or understanding of the matter. I suggest exploring several options and engaging in negotiations to get a more favourable outcome.

This is mostly a matter of personal preference, ultimately determined by the significance you place on the additional features provided by one version compared to another, as well as your financial resources. I have a dislike for panoramic roofs, however I do like the 12" information screen. However, the GT-Line screen not only provides me with all the necessary driving information, but also has an aesthetically pleasing appearance. The functionality of our automobile meets all my requirements, and the abundance of technologies it has ensures my satisfaction for many years to come. While I acknowledge that other owners may have other opinions, I maintain that the matter ultimately boils down to personal preference.

I also own a 1990 R129, which I myself maintain. I have a preference for older Mercedes vehicles. When it came to servicing my W212, I had two options: taking it to Mercedes or an independent service provider. I inquired about the service at the independent provider, but their response was unsatisfactory. As the vehicle approached 140,000 km, I deemed it wise to have the gearbox serviced. Hopefully, it adequately addresses your inquiry. The box required maintenance to ensure its longevity. I first believed that these remarks were intended for providing advise. I own another item, namely a 123, which is located in Thailand.

After having my gearbox serviced by Mercedes of Macclesfield Cheshire, I noticed that my car was functioning properly for two days. However, I now experience a noticeable jolt when selecting the drive mode. The only changes made during the service were the replacement of the gearbox fluid, filter and magnets. Prior to the service, my car was functioning fine. Has anyone else encountered this issue, and do you have any suggestions on what course of action I should take? Macclesfield is obstructing my progress; they have also shown the same behaviour about the suspension springs. They abscond with your funds and then conceal themselves!

Boon is also present on this platform with the username @sirius9, thus we may expect him to join this discussion soon.

The reluctor ring and sensor tip will experience wear and tear. My BMW e90 is equipped with the same tyre configuration as yours, which consists of 225x45x17 tyres in the front and 245x40x17 tyres in the rear. I have never had any issues with this arrangement, and I had the same tyre combination on my previous BMW e46 as well.

I choose the first photograph.

I concur that the subjective perception of the buttocks does not discern any difference. Both may be either series/parallel (S/C) or transverse/transverse (TT). It is essentially the same engine. The distinction lies in aesthetics. And the technology you want inside, in my opinion. If you like analogue instruments, tiny displays, the traditional method of turning a key to start the vehicle, the option of a gated manual gearbox and a more subdued interior, then the Gen1 model would be the suitable choice for you. If you want the most up-to-date technological features from Audi, like a virtual cockpit with a bigger screen, a more sophisticated interior (including seats that are not sourced from an A4 like the first generation), push button start, drive choose, and an improved steering wheel, then the second generation would be the optimal choice.

Both transmissions are S-tronic dual clutch, as Osman said. (However, it is worth noting that the Gen1 model is available with a manual gearbox, but the Gen 2 model does not provide this option.) However, if you choose to remain in automated mode, the two most significant distinctions will be: 1- Aesthetics (subjective) 2-Improved Performance (Gen 2 exhibits superior performance) Both engines are fundamentally same with minor differences. The main difference is that Gen2 incorporates both port and direct injection, whereas Gen1 is limited to direct injection alone. Gen2 is not expected to have carbon build-up problems on the valves, unlike Gen1. The Gen2 model has more power and may be readily adjusted to higher levels than the Gen1 model, if desired. Another significant factor to consider is variations in gearing. Furthermore, the interior technology is significantly distinct. Comparison between digital technology and first-generation analogue technology. The second generation of the R8, known as Gen2, is expected to have somewhat higher value in the near future due to its more recent release. However, if you are seeking enduring worth, it is probable that it will ultimately revert to Gen1. This is only my own viewpoint. In my subjective viewpoint, the latest Gen2 makeover exhibits a greater degree of distinctiveness and nostalgia towards Gen1. The Gen2 pre-FL has an extremely angular and rectangular shape.

The Mercedes service centre informed me that both rear impulse rings of my vehicle need to be replaced. I have purchased authentic components on eBay and I want to bring them to a nearby automotive workshop to get a price estimate. Does anybody have an estimate of the anticipated cost?

After consulting with many individuals and doing thorough investigation, I am wondering whether the problem might perhaps be attributed to a faulty ABS control unit that requires replacement.

After conversing with a representative from iCarsoft, they suggested that the issue may stem from a defective ABS module or damaged wires.

Does this apply just to version 2? I own just the MB V1.0. Thank you.

I will attempt to implement that suggestion tomorrow.

Is replacing the reluctor ring a complex task? Is it costly?

I am seeing a warning on my vehicle's display indicating that the Electronic Brakeforce Distribution (EBD) and Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) are not functioning properly. The handbook provided by the vehicle manufacturer has more information on this issue. I connected it to the iCarsoft device and received the accompanying notifications. Does this imply that both rear wheel speed sensors need to be replaced? Thank you very much.

It is advisable to attempt, even if it does not achieve the desired outcome.

Although the battery seems to be in good condition, it is advisable to verify the voltage when it is under load to ensure its proper functioning. What is the current gasoline level in the tank? I am inquiring because if the fuel level is low and the tank breather has not been completely sealed, the volatile components in the fuel required for cold starting may have partially evaporated. This could result in a successful initial start using the fuel in the lines that are not exposed to the atmosphere. However, after running for a short period, there may be difficulty starting again as the fuel from the tank is utilised. If the gasoline level in the tank is low and the concentration of volatile compounds in the fuel is also low, then adding a substantial amount of fresh fuel might potentially resolve the issue. Even if it does not resolve the issue, you will have the assurance that your gasoline is of satisfactory quality. Nevertheless, if the automobile operated smoothly for over thirty seconds after the first start, it indicates that the gasoline quality is satisfactory, at the very least.

If you find yourself in 6th gear and have released the accelerator, but still need acceleration, I would recommend downshifting to 5th gear. Attempting to increase speed when in 6th gear will likely result in a lack of power and excitement.

What would have been the price of the NOX sensor?

What is the purported maximum velocity of your vehicle? Did you exhaust any further fuel in the engine and reach the maximum speed limit? I achieved a speed of 184mph with my V8 engine, but unfortunately, I ran out of available road.

Thank you. What is the definition of DME?