Mindumer

Greetings, I left the automobile in its current state, despite the presence of a boost pressure mistake. My vehicle operates smoothly and smoothly, with no issues with errors on the dashboard or any other defects. Even after changing the load pieces and addressing any flaws, the car is still in the ECU. I relinquish my search for a problem as the automobile operates and pulls as intended. I believe, as Rasa said, that this issue may be connected to the process of remapping. If a new map is created, it might perhaps eliminate the defect. However, based on my current map, it seems that the vehicle is pulling smoothly from 1500 rpm to the final gear, so I have kept it as it is for now.

Thank you for your response. My vehicle was repaired by Bobby Singh, who is a member of the Vag group modification team. He performed all necessary work, including replacing the vac hose and resolving oil leaks. After completing all necessary repairs, I noticed a significant increase in diesel consumption. Although my car did not enter limp mode, there was a fault in the ECU. I consulted Carly, although it may not be the most reliable tool for interpreting the ECU, as it was my first time using a BMW. I deleted the "boost pressure sensor" after a hard acceleration, but it returned after one hard acceleration. Consequently, I purchased a new one from BMW, but the issue persisted without any improvement. The car should possess around 380 horsepower, which is a high level of speed. However, I believe it should have a greater initial power. Subsequently, I intended to replace two pressure converters and all vac hoses, tasks that I am capable of completing independently. However, after you informed me that you have already completed all of this work, no progress has been made until you have applied a new map. I am uncertain about the purpose of undertaking this job and investing money in it. Additionally, my tuner has indicated that the issue lies with the wires rather than the map.

I appreciate your response. I consulted my tuner regarding this matter, and he examined the map and determined that the fault is unlikely to occur due to excessive boost. He suggested that the issue may be related to wiring. However, it is peculiar that all the readings are obtained when the car is in idle mode and stationary. After researching various topics, I found that half of my vacuum lines have been replaced by the tuner. Therefore, it may be necessary to replace the remaining vacuum lines and two pressure converter I am uncertain about the reason for my suspicion that it may be a map, however this tuner has performed really well on my previous Audi vehicle, accurately identifying all concerns without any problems.

Hello, I am experiencing the same problem with my BMW e92 335d. I have remapped the engine, deleted the DPF, and removed the EGR. Additionally, I have deleted the large intercooler flaps and XHP stage 3. I am unable to access the thread above, perhaps because to my lack of familiarity with this location. Could someone assist me by providing information on how they resolve this case? regards

The aforementioned issue has been resolved. Regrettably, I neglected to inspect the fuses, resulting in the blowing of fuse number 21 (7.5A). Consequently, I promptly changed it, so resolving the issue. When the tachometer, fuel efficiency gauge, and oil brake controller (OBC) malfunction, it is necessary to inspect the fuse numbers 10, 12, 21, and 27. The tachometer and fuel economy are 10 and 21, respectively, with both typically operating at 7.5A. OBC effectively utilises all four of the aforementioned fuses. If we substitute 10 and 21 as previously said, then fuse number 12 is likewise 7.5A and fuse number 27 is 30A. This concludes the matter.

Instead of creating a new topic, I came upon this one during my search, therefore I will post here... I have had a similar problem with my 1990 E30 325i. Initially, all components were functioning well. However, today, when attempting to connect the radio wires to euro plugs, I saw the absence of the OBC. Subsequently, while starting the vehicle, I found that the rev counter was also non-functional. It seems that there may have been a short circuit or an improper connection. The threshold voltage is 30A. This is the current state of affairs: The colours are as follows: Brown, Black, Purple, Red, Yellow, and Blue. A tape is applied to the orange wire of the euro plug. Subsequently, the speaker wires are arranged in a manner that the gray-grey/black and green-green/black wires are precisely aligned, while the white/purple wires are affixed with tape due to the absence of any suitable connections. Additionally, when you activate the ignition (without starting the vehicle), you will see that the OBC illuminates, although there is no visual representation on the LCD...Indeed, the rev counter, often known as the tachometer, ceased to function. I would much appreciate your assistance, individuals.

While it is possible, the backup batteries are often the root cause of any issues with the E30 instrument. Individuals who are the originals tend to have a negative response when they are released.

The OBC's LCD crystal has low strength in the E30 and is susceptible to cold or freezing conditions. Two rechargeable batteries are connected to the circuit board of the Instrument / dash panel. In the absence of a battery connection, they deplete. The battery should be left attached for a duration of one to two days in order to assess its charging capacity. If not, it is possible to substitute them...\ [url]http://www.e30zone.eu/e30zonewiki/images/7/7f/Dash_battery.PDF[/URL]

The only way to decide is to see the outcome. We are unable to see the internal components of the engine online.

It was functioning well for a few months until this Saturday when it stopped working after 80 miles. However, after letting it sit for an hour and taking a short drive, it started working well again. How do you mean by "I can 'teach' the new one in star"?

Any new information on this matter?

I tested it outside and it is not functioning. I will bring it to the dealer for inspection. Lev also reported that it did not function for him during winter. It is now winter in Wisconsin, however the temperature is not extremely chilly at the moment. I had it cleansed and had an underbody flush.

Using the foot motion to open the trunk is proving difficult for me to master. I stand at the corner of the bumper and wave my leg. It has a 40% success rate in opening. I attempted to understand it but am unable to grasp it. What is lacking? I inquired with the dealer when I had my 2023 vehicle. He recommended that I stand on the back bumper, but that approach is as ineffective. The dealer is around 45 minutes away, and I did not have the opportunity to return there.

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Verify your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) using a decoder to see whether it has the Thai Leather option.

Exactly. The whole CF system breaks suddenly and invariably results in a catastrophic failure. Consider Titan submarine. Disregard the reduction in unsprung weight. That is the last material I want my wheels built of for a vehicle that I will be driving thousands of miles over many years.

Accepted. Carbon Revolution wheels are original equipment manufacturer for the Mustang Dark Horse and C8 Z06. A set costs between $12,000 and $20,000. However..Apologies. If I were not monitoring the car's movements, I would never use a set of complete carbon fibre wheels on the street. Forever.

That might perhaps clarify the situation - I assume that the OP's 124 is a more recent model from 1995 compared to mine.

Greetings, I am astonished by the fact that you own an electronic key. I own a 1995 model 124 vehicle, and the key for it is purely mechanical, devoid of any electrical components. Can you describe the appearance of yours?

That is somewhat peculiar given I had the understanding that newer autos would be mostly unaffected. Presumably, their automobile will be protected by warranty in the event that it has a malfunction. My previous E39 seems to start and operate without any issues, however it is not presently being driven in a manner that would enable me to do performance or fuel efficiency testing.

Although I may be mistaken, it seems like you have entered the text in the incorrect order. LOL

Greetings everyone, I am curious to know about individuals' encounters using E10 fuel so far. There has been a recent surge in news stories discussing a decline in the economy, a decrease in performance, and other difficulties such as running troubles and EML (Engine Management Light) malfunctions. Has anybody empirically seen this phenomenon, or is it only the customary tendency of the media to exaggerate and focus on negative events? Currently, I am using the outdated E46 tractor, hence I lack a proper basis for comparison between E5 and E10. As a result of escalating fuel and energy costs, I am considering replacing the E46 in the near future with a more cost-effective alternative. I am contemplating whether to continue using diesel or go back to petrol. All comments and feedback are appreciated. Thank you

I appreciate the information. It seems that there are many distinct versions of that specific model. Could you maybe provide more specific details about the one you have?I am uncertain about the extent to which I am interested, although the reverse camera you mentioned is rather enticing.

Obtaining new carpets has been problematic since I have been unable in finding a supplier for these things.