Micobe

https://www.tesla.com/support/autopilot

I possess only TACC and Autopilot, not FSD. Prior to November 2024, I possessed a 2018 Model 3, which featured the same setting; I conducted a test to determine if the scroll wheel models also include that setting. The Autopilot manual similarly stipulates this information:

I conducted some testing on your behalf! I now possess a 2024 Model 3 including scroll wheel activation for Autopilot/TACC, without FSD, and equipped with the latest software. The Autopilot settings tab offers an activation choice for "Single Click" or "Double Click," analogous to Single Pull/Double Pull on the stalk. In "Single Click" mode, only Autopilot is engaged, necessitating a modification in settings to activate Traffic-Aware Cruise. In "Double Click" mode, the initial click engages Traffic-Aware Cruise, while the subsequent click enables Autopilot. The distinction is audible, since TACC produces a singular bong sound, but AP emits a dual-tone startup sound.

The Tesla technician who performed my last service in 2022 replaced it in the parking lot without any software involvement. He detached the PCS connection beneath the rear seat, disconnected the battery, substituted it, and thereafter reconnected the PCS.

Replacing the low-voltage battery does not necessitate a firmware update. It may be included in the Service Centre estimate as a favour on occasion. If you choose not to wait for the software update, they can initiate the download, allowing you to install it upon your return home.

😇

One point for Avantgarde. The SL63 AMG has been present many times in the last six months. It is uncommon to see Shmees' vivid yellow AMG, four or five SLR McLarens, and many Maybachs, including a Zeppelin variant, all in one location. The individuals who own these vehicles evidently have confidence in Steve and his crew, as do I. It is over a 40-mile journey for me.

Are there any split vacuum pipes available?

If that is occurring, it should be feasible to discern with your fingertips the location of the impact inside the sump, provided you can sufficiently reach the sump. Only proceed if the sounds is not metallic. Should it be metallic, the likelihood of engine damage is significantly increased. Moreover, it is likely that nothing is impacting the plastic sump.

If, and only if, the engine is consuming itself, there will be metallic particles present in the oil. Potentially observable to the naked eye, unequivocally ascertainable with oil analysis. Enquiring about the proximity of the sump to moving mechanical components. Proximate enough that excessive tightening has caused them to make contact?

It does not seem metallic to me either.

😑

30-year-old individual.

air intake? The S55 engine in my car does not need modifications to the air intake, since it is not suited for a derv. The 5 Series is a refined vehicle, not a vehicle for the ostentatious.

It is probable that the original owner did not choose that option.

I have operated a Japanese-imported diesel vehicle in New Zealand, which was also equipped with one of those systems. They are rather prevalent in Japan, and frankly, when I had Diesel vehicles, I would let the engine to idle for many seconds, particularly after an intense drive. I believe it is less significant for contemporary small-engine turbo petrol vehicles, since the turbo seldom engages during regular driving, in contrast to a diesel engine.

Purchase a pulley from reputable companies such as INA, Gates, SKF, or an authentic MB component.

Oil may also escape from the oil test port located in front of the engine. This hole is sealed by a square rubber gasket positioned right above the belt tensioner. Do these automobiles have problems with harmonic balancers as prior models from Mercedes-Benz used to?

While driving the first automobile, I had the impression that I would not be purchasing one of them. Upon my return to the dealership, I was provided with an alternative vehicle that was satisfactory and met the standard expectations. Successfully disengaged. I firmly pressed on the accelerator and the vehicle accelerated flawlessly. Essentially, mimic the behaviour of my existing automobile. Indeed, the first vehicle proved to be a failure. Since it was among their pre-owned vehicles on the market, I was unaware that this was a common problem with XCeeds in general. The automobile I will be acquiring has undergone a modification from 158 horsepower to 138 bhp, which occurred at the end of last year or the beginning of this year, as far as I am aware. Is there any evidence to suggest that this modification in engine specifications has successfully addressed the problem?

After doing some research, it seems that the situation is not favourable. Is it possible for this issue to occur within 30 days of purchasing the automobile and may it cause the car to come to a halt when transitioning from stationary traffic, such as at traffic lights?

Greetings, I just purchased a 24 plate XCeed and while doing research on the vehicle, I stumbled into a site where many were discussing the car's subpar throttle programming. Could you perhaps provide a concise explanation of this matter? Moreover, does it imply that you may get immobilised and unable of progressing if you were to come to a complete halt in traffic? During my test drive of the XCeed, I saw a noticeable issue anytime I applied pressure to the accelerator pedal. When I tried to accelerate, it took a significant amount of time for the vehicle to gain speed, causing a buildup of automobiles behind me. It is rather concerning while driving on high-speed routes, particularly when large trucks are approaching from behind at a slow pace. I repeatedly downshifted, causing the engine revolutions per minute (RPM) to become too high. Upon ascending, I had a complete loss of power and the issue of very sluggish acceleration resurfaced. I informed the salesperson about the issue I was experiencing, which appeared to surprise him. He assured me that he would have the mechanic examine it, since the behaviour I described was not expected. I was provided with an additional vehicle to test, which exhibited typical performance and had good acceleration. Does the poor throttling correspond to the issue I had with the first vehicle? Is this a phenomenon that can be anticipated universally or is it one that is variable across individuals? I will be acquiring a GT Line Turbocharged manual vehicle. Thank you.

I have chosen to go with the HeliCoil repair. However, I am now seeking information on the thread pitch of the M10 head bolt for a 2012 HSE 5.0L. If anybody has this knowledge, do share it.

I just seen a somewhat scientific movie that examined the pull-out strength of many solutions. Among them, HeliCoil outperformed all but one, achieving a remarkable rating of over 7,500 psi. My non-turbocharged engine is incapable of reaching that figure, and I have no desire to remove the cylinder head again, at least during the time I expect to keep the vehicle, which may be between 50,000 and 100,000 miles. Currently, I am in need of an affordable option for a long reach threading tool, as well as a 2-inch long helicoil. I plan to contact Helicoil tomorrow.

I am now replacing the head gaskets on a 5.0L 2012 engine, and I had significant difficulty with removing one specific head bolt. With a torque of around 10 nm applied to the wrench while just seating the head, the threads were immediately wrenched out. Has anybody encountered the need to fix a head bolt and can provide me with some guidance? I am uncertain about the first steps to locate cutting pieces of such considerable length, much alone a threading tool that is sufficiently lengthy.

Affirmative.