Micobe

Good day, To start, I really appreciate your response; it's been really helpful. In the event that the vanos solenoids become "totally stuck" without making a clattering sound, I will remove them and give them a good shake. Is there a way to fix them or will I need to purchase new ones? Please provide some visual aid, such as a link, video, or image, so that I may see the vanos check valves as well. I'm still learning the ropes of auto repair, so I'm not that knowledgeable about this (haha). When I reinstalled the air intake box, I thought I could hear air leaking, but 1) the engine is really loud and 2) I have no idea what to listen for, haha. Can you provide another link that highlights the CCV pipe? Thank you so much; I will also conduct some research on my own. The spark plugs were completely black and charred, yet they did not contain any oil. Im going to include a picture of spark plugs. I believe I can run live values with my extremely capable mid-high-end obd scanner. I'll scan it and see what comes up if you could be more detailed. And lastly, I want to express my deepest gratitude for all of your assistance.

Salutations everyone, For anyone curious, I've been attempting to fix a BMW that we owned for almost 12 years. About three years ago (2022), it unexpectedly died, and my dad attempted to fix it but forgot. He parked it in our front yard, where it has remained for the last three years. I began working on it in October, but with my part-time job and school responsibilities, I don't have much spare time. Here are the components and fixes that I have applied thus far. Although the number on the body is 200k, the engine mileage is closer to 37k, because my uncle installed a new engine when it was previously owned by him. Initial symptoms before to undertaking any task: • Inactive • Vibrations in the engine • Fluttering-like unstable RPMs • Pressing the throttle completely causes it to not rev past approximately 1500 RPM. • Starting from scratch (different attempts) After around five to eight minutes of running, the car would finally calm down, but it would still run and idle poorly. Current tasks (in chronological order): • Fuel pump replaced • Put in four brand-new spark plugs from Bosch performed a plug-and-unplug test on the coils • Took off the airbox, changed the air filter, and used WD-40 electrical contact cleaner to clean the MAF sensor. • Took out the VANOS solenoids, cleaned them using WD-40 contact cleaner, and put them back where they came from. The vehicle was operating (roughly, but running) before VANOS was cleaned. Following your VANOS cleaning: • Cranks, but won't start, engine • Cranked normally at first, but after a few tries it started cranking more slowly; I suspect the battery was dying since the dash began to flutter as it was cranking very slowly, and finally it stopped cranking altogether. Further details: • Although it has been removed, the battery was first run with the transit vent plugs still installed, even though it is just a couple months old. • A wall charger has been used to charge the battery. MAF was given ample time to air dry before being reinstalled; following the reinstallation, it ran smoothly. There are a few irrelevant codes that come up in the OBD scan, but nothing that specifically mentions VANOS. The VANOS connectors are correctly inserted. • Now I'm not entirely certain that this is the problem, but I cleaned the VANOS solenoids and, in my foolishness, didn't wait for them to dry before putting them back in. However, after doing some more research, I found that this might not be the case. What are the questions? Can cleaning VANOS solenoids cause a complete lack of starting? Is it possible that the WD-40 contact cleaner completely ruined the VANOS solenoids? Now what am I supposed to do or verify? Struggling to find the problem methodically while avoiding tossing parts at it. Please provide whatever guidance you can. If anyone is interested in seeing images or videos of the travel, I have chronicled it quite a bit. Just let me know!

I acknowledge that this is a Sorento, not a Sportage; but, I am preparing to renew mine for its third or fourth service, and it is detailed as follows. ABSENCE OF A STRATEGY: Third Service £409 Fourth Service £533 2 × MOT 26/27 at £54.84 each Total: £1,051.70 WITH STRATEGY: £779.00 including MOTs Thus, a savings of about £300. This is the EMAC strategy through Kia.

https://www.tesla.com/support/autopilot

I possess only TACC and Autopilot, not FSD. Prior to November 2024, I possessed a 2018 Model 3, which featured the same setting; I conducted a test to determine if the scroll wheel models also include that setting. The Autopilot manual similarly stipulates this information:

I conducted some testing on your behalf! I now possess a 2024 Model 3 including scroll wheel activation for Autopilot/TACC, without FSD, and equipped with the latest software. The Autopilot settings tab offers an activation choice for "Single Click" or "Double Click," analogous to Single Pull/Double Pull on the stalk. In "Single Click" mode, only Autopilot is engaged, necessitating a modification in settings to activate Traffic-Aware Cruise. In "Double Click" mode, the initial click engages Traffic-Aware Cruise, while the subsequent click enables Autopilot. The distinction is audible, since TACC produces a singular bong sound, but AP emits a dual-tone startup sound.

The Tesla technician who performed my last service in 2022 replaced it in the parking lot without any software involvement. He detached the PCS connection beneath the rear seat, disconnected the battery, substituted it, and thereafter reconnected the PCS.

Replacing the low-voltage battery does not necessitate a firmware update. It may be included in the Service Centre estimate as a favour on occasion. If you choose not to wait for the software update, they can initiate the download, allowing you to install it upon your return home.

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One point for Avantgarde. The SL63 AMG has been present many times in the last six months. It is uncommon to see Shmees' vivid yellow AMG, four or five SLR McLarens, and many Maybachs, including a Zeppelin variant, all in one location. The individuals who own these vehicles evidently have confidence in Steve and his crew, as do I. It is over a 40-mile journey for me.

Are there any split vacuum pipes available?

If that is occurring, it should be feasible to discern with your fingertips the location of the impact inside the sump, provided you can sufficiently reach the sump. Only proceed if the sounds is not metallic. Should it be metallic, the likelihood of engine damage is significantly increased. Moreover, it is likely that nothing is impacting the plastic sump.

If, and only if, the engine is consuming itself, there will be metallic particles present in the oil. Potentially observable to the naked eye, unequivocally ascertainable with oil analysis. Enquiring about the proximity of the sump to moving mechanical components. Proximate enough that excessive tightening has caused them to make contact?

It does not seem metallic to me either.

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30-year-old individual.

air intake? The S55 engine in my car does not need modifications to the air intake, since it is not suited for a derv. The 5 Series is a refined vehicle, not a vehicle for the ostentatious.

It is probable that the original owner did not choose that option.

I have operated a Japanese-imported diesel vehicle in New Zealand, which was also equipped with one of those systems. They are rather prevalent in Japan, and frankly, when I had Diesel vehicles, I would let the engine to idle for many seconds, particularly after an intense drive. I believe it is less significant for contemporary small-engine turbo petrol vehicles, since the turbo seldom engages during regular driving, in contrast to a diesel engine.

Purchase a pulley from reputable companies such as INA, Gates, SKF, or an authentic MB component.

Oil may also escape from the oil test port located in front of the engine. This hole is sealed by a square rubber gasket positioned right above the belt tensioner. Do these automobiles have problems with harmonic balancers as prior models from Mercedes-Benz used to?

While driving the first automobile, I had the impression that I would not be purchasing one of them. Upon my return to the dealership, I was provided with an alternative vehicle that was satisfactory and met the standard expectations. Successfully disengaged. I firmly pressed on the accelerator and the vehicle accelerated flawlessly. Essentially, mimic the behaviour of my existing automobile. Indeed, the first vehicle proved to be a failure. Since it was among their pre-owned vehicles on the market, I was unaware that this was a common problem with XCeeds in general. The automobile I will be acquiring has undergone a modification from 158 horsepower to 138 bhp, which occurred at the end of last year or the beginning of this year, as far as I am aware. Is there any evidence to suggest that this modification in engine specifications has successfully addressed the problem?

After doing some research, it seems that the situation is not favourable. Is it possible for this issue to occur within 30 days of purchasing the automobile and may it cause the car to come to a halt when transitioning from stationary traffic, such as at traffic lights?

Greetings, I just purchased a 24 plate XCeed and while doing research on the vehicle, I stumbled into a site where many were discussing the car's subpar throttle programming. Could you perhaps provide a concise explanation of this matter? Moreover, does it imply that you may get immobilised and unable of progressing if you were to come to a complete halt in traffic? During my test drive of the XCeed, I saw a noticeable issue anytime I applied pressure to the accelerator pedal. When I tried to accelerate, it took a significant amount of time for the vehicle to gain speed, causing a buildup of automobiles behind me. It is rather concerning while driving on high-speed routes, particularly when large trucks are approaching from behind at a slow pace. I repeatedly downshifted, causing the engine revolutions per minute (RPM) to become too high. Upon ascending, I had a complete loss of power and the issue of very sluggish acceleration resurfaced. I informed the salesperson about the issue I was experiencing, which appeared to surprise him. He assured me that he would have the mechanic examine it, since the behaviour I described was not expected. I was provided with an additional vehicle to test, which exhibited typical performance and had good acceleration. Does the poor throttling correspond to the issue I had with the first vehicle? Is this a phenomenon that can be anticipated universally or is it one that is variable across individuals? I will be acquiring a GT Line Turbocharged manual vehicle. Thank you.

I have chosen to go with the HeliCoil repair. However, I am now seeking information on the thread pitch of the M10 head bolt for a 2012 HSE 5.0L. If anybody has this knowledge, do share it.