Thenornpo

You should consider using a helicoil to repair it. However, I lack expertise in this matter. During my employment at Mercedes, several technicians encountered this problem and resolved it by helicoiling the hole, successfully reassembling it without any complications.

4MATIC is a notable feature. I am filled with fear. I recommend purchasing the appropriate 19-inch wheels and equipping them with all-season tyres such as Crossclimates.

combined with 275/30/20. Are correct for your automobile , with 8.5 and 9.5 j rims.

Tomorrow, I will thoroughly examine the situation, with the expectation that it is only a question of inspecting and ruling out any grounds of concern. Thank you so much for your assistance; it is really motivating.

Indeed, I am considering the possibility that there may be a limitation in the oil supply to the shaft, resulting in insufficient lubrication. I will thoroughly examine all components to verify this hypothesis.

Thank you for that, it is really appreciated. The potential issue might be an imbalance caused by carbon accumulation on the blades. It is likely necessary to remove for examination. It ceased for an extended duration and then resumed.

The turbo emits a noise at around 1500 rpm, without any visible smoke, and the vehicle performs adequately on the road. It would be beneficial to determine the cause of this siren-like noise. If I apply little pressure on the accelerator pedal while driving, the performance is satisfactory. Similarly, once the vehicle reaches a certain speed, the performance remains satisfactory.

My car's headlights have been on for 7 years, and like RBH said, they may be influenced by the sun. However, I haven't had any problems, even with folding mirrors.(have a spare set ready).

The hood, top, and trunk need repainting, presumably due to the removal of the wrap. I have a sense of familiarity about the availability of this item in previous instances.

The overall condition seems OK, save for the need of repainting due to the removal of the wrap. Some minor modifications were made to the car's appearance, including the addition of a spoiler, mirror covers, and black badging. The assessment of whether something is excellent or poor is subjective and depends on individual preferences. While carbon fibre options are not available, the vehicle does include the B&O sound system. The linen coloured chairs are often dirty, but these seem to be in fine condition. Impressive rims. It is very certain that you will get a ppi. Examine the brake rotors carefully, since they may be rather expensive to repair. Obtain the vehicle identification number (VIN), acquire a Carfax report, and do thorough investigation. A price of $53,000 seems reasonable provided the vehicle is in flawless mechanical condition.

Possibly, but, if the vehicle or brakes are wet and left on, there will be a significant clunking sound when you start moving. If you refrain from turning it on, there will be no consequences.

I have never had any problems when doing manoeuvres such as reversing. I only use the handbrake to prevent the vehicle from sliding on wet brake discs. The AH is continuously operational.

This is the most recent one. According to Trailman, he turns it off. Do you need to turn it back on afterwards? Like you, I typically keep the brake engaged and only sometimes disengage it when I need to park, using the brake switch. If you deactivate the auto hold feature before to coming to a stop, the parking brake will not engage. Are you implying that if you deactivate it, it will reactivate itself automatically?

Oh. I was unaware of it. On several occasions, it is more convenient to use the switch than of manually turning off AH and then remembering to put it back on.

I have used the switch on a single occasion, specifically when the automobile required storage without being well dried. When shutting off the automobile, make sure to keep the switch in the 'off' position to prevent the brake from engaging and causing friction on the discs. Aside from that, I have never interacted with it. Simply keep the autohold feature on.

To address the issue, I suggest placing silica bags in and around the dashboard. Additionally, it is important to inspect and clear the drains located on both sides of the engine bay, considering the significant amount of recent rainfall. Checking the carpets for dampness and examining the cabin filter for any signs of damage or moisture would also be advisable. If the vehicle is parked on the driveway, using a low-powered blow heater in the footwell overnight, connected to the garage, may help identify any potential leaks if the issue is resolved.

I am sceptical about the durability of the gas cap covering. Even when dealing with extensive regions, I have had difficulties in maintaining a flawless condition. Handling a little circle seems like an extremely challenging task.

I would likely opt for a simple reconfiguration and conclude the process.

The outcome is contingent upon your desires. I have a strong affinity for the 55k engine and I believe that in a CL, it exhibits a wild and reckless behaviour. On the other hand, the 600 engine is more polished and equally speedy.

That is delightful, and I believe that roughly 10K is the appropriate price for one of them. The automobile will always need a significant amount of maintenance, but this is inherent to its design and characteristics.

I hope that is the problem. Mine is not as severe, but it is gradually worsening if not addressed. I will provide an update after I have replaced them. Greetings

Apologies for the quality of the video. It is worth noting that there is a noticeable buzzing sound whenever I engage the throttle, and it ceases when I release the throttle. Furthermore, the issue is present when the throttle is set to a low position, namely between 2500 and 4000 RPMs. Beyond this range, the exhaust noise becomes excessively loud, making it difficult to hear any other sounds. However, the problem persists throughout regular driving.

I apologise, but that is the optimal recording I was able to get. You may see that each time I release the throttle, the audio ceases, and conversely, when I apply throttle, it resumes. The Pro shaft has been inspected and confirmed to be in good condition and properly balanced. Yesterday, I discovered that one of my engine mounts has failed, and the second one is also deteriorating. However, I am uncertain whether this is the cause of the mechanical buzzing or rattling sound. I have purchased all three mounts, but I am unable to determine whether they are the cause of the issue until I install them.

It is worth attempting to address this issue. The sound is originating from the right side of the engine inside the automobile, and it is consistently bothering me whenever I drive.

The noise is not causing any disruption to the sound system, but it consistently occurs as I speed.