Starat

It may be due to insufficient battery power if there is no CAN-bus.

A low fuel pressure signal could be shown if the saddle tank's lift pump fails.

Once the FSR is fully placed, it is secured to the HVAC box using a plastic clip/detent. To detach, just pull the fastening clip in the opposite direction and remove the FSR. To disconnect the electrical plug, compress the two symmetrical retention clips on the connector. To help you identify the two stronger wires that connect the outlet to the blower motor, I've included some images in this email. In case you were wondering, I "send" 12v to the blower motor during testing by using a little Lion battery with a pair of crocodile clipped wires. It makes no difference either way you connect the 12v supply to the blower motor if the plug is detached from the FSR. Connecting it in a "backwards polarity" manner will just cause it to spin in the opposite direction of original rotation.

It seems like your HVAC module is functioning properly because the lower speed switch has the correct number of orange dots glowing on its outer band for a defrost instruction. A faulty commutator on the armature of the blower motor itself or an FSR problem could also be to blame :(. To test if the blower motor turns over when connected to a different 12v supply, you can unhook the FSR connector and bridge the pins to the motor. This will help you diagnose and rule out the blower motor as a possible problem.

Will the blower fan turn on under the same conditions if you set it to maximum defrost?

When this happens on my W205, it's typically because of the radar sensor or the wiring around it in the grill.

This may be caused by gasoline slosh in the tank if the baffle were to break (if that's even a thing).

I will be verifying a common earth point. There will be a stud located on the inner wing accompanied by several brown wires.

Your insurance will not provide coverage for this, and a breakdown service cannot create a new key. A compromised key fob is not the issue; you have previously recognised a damaged circuit board, which may be the root of the problem. Due to its antiquated design, certain automotive locksmiths possess the capability to fabricate and program a key. Consider conducting a search or making a phone call. The issue may potentially stem from a malfunctioning Electronic Ignition Switch, with the damaged component not being the root cause in this instance.

Additionally, allow 7 to 10 days for delivery.

Conduct the standard inspections of service and MOT histories, and listen for any chain sounds, particularly during cold starts.

It is advisable to choose for the 2.0 engine and maintain it frequently, including servicing the timing chain at 100,000 miles. While the six-cylinder engine performs well and has an appealing sound, it may present more significant and costly problems compared to the timing chain replacement of a four-cylinder engine. They experience bottom end failure, which, if not detected promptly, results in the scrapping of the block.

One should not get any speed alerts while going below 20 mph. Neither the cruise control nor the speed limiters may be configured to a setting below 20 mph. Is the device designed to emit a beep at all speeds down to 0 mph, or is there a specific speed threshold at which the chirping ceases?

What information does the VCDS scan report provide?

Is this the same vehicle as the one mentioned in your previous discussion?