RacingNight

You still have six more years of coverage on a vehicle that is only a year old, thanks to the seven-year warranty. When it comes to the ICCU problem, it might happen in a used automobile or a brand new one. Bring it up, and have the dealer clarify in writing that a car will be available in the event that such an issue arises; otherwise, you will be unable to drive while it is being repaired. It has been a pleasure to own a Kia E-Niro, which is over six years old; the only problem was a charging flap problem, but it was resolved within a day thanks to the guarantee. Is it safer to take a chance on an unknown purchase—new or used—or hold on to my 2020 E-Niro? Today, it seems like everything is up in the air. These days, anxiety appears to affect the entire country.Buying a used automobile won't kill you, and you can save a tonne of money compared to newer models.

Fascinating development. Here is a little heat that I have. I was using the rear seat heater while driving, but I can't tell if the blower motor is functioning or not. I realised I was getting heat from the vents after turning it off but leaving the front running. A minuscule amount. I am uncertain if this suggests any alternative paths. In any case, I've been wanting a power probe for my classic for a while now, so I'm going to get one from the fsr just in case.

Have you connected the power? If so, where? A power probe will be ordered by me. With the pins? Or perhaps to the FSR?

Oh no, it's not. Assuming this is what you mean. The front HVAC system remains turned off when the back system is turned off.

This is a proactive post to ensure that I can order all I could need—I have not yet dug in another. The problem is that my HVAC system turns on, but no air is being expelled. Nothing wrong with the back HVAC. I had a lengthy, chilly trip this morning, so that was a godsend. Fsr is the only one that has shown up in my research. Is anything else required? I've had no problems with anything up until yesterday night. Driving was the only strange thing; I turned up the heat, but it wasn't too hot. Thus, perhaps it was fuelling up on my journey. In most cases, I only need to turn on one or two lights for the blower to do its job. I just attributed it to the cold weather and didn't give it much thought. It's a supercharged 2008 model. The fan isn't making any noise at all. Absolutely nothing. To reiterate, it appears to be functioning because the lights turn on. Please inform me if there is anything else that needs to be checked or replaced. Also, is one particular brand recommended?

Used something similar on a BMW engine and it got the job done. Renewing it is necessary with each oil change. It's not cheap to reseal ATP.

I checked the air vent assembly's vent flap component and couldn't find any numbers on it. Comparing it to the E11 vents offered on eBay, the entire thing appears to be shorter. I will upload a picture from my home computer later because my phone doesn't work for this.

With the exception of the chrome surround that serves as the attachment to the dashboard, I am aware that the center and side vents on e12s are identical. Probably a lot of vehicles use the same basic vent assembly; the silver surrounds merely vary to match the shapes of the dashboards. The one I took off my daughter's car could have numbers on it, so I could look for them.

DAB consistently performs this function in my vicinity; it is antenna-based, always utilising FM without issues.

Transition to LFP battery.

We used ContiSport 5P tires on Angie's SLK55, which exhibited excellent grip until excessively challenged.

For nostalgia, it would be the vibrant M30B30 / M30B35 from the E34. For contemporary daily tasks, I utilise the M57 in my F11.

Unless extensively modified, an induction kit serves just as decorative enhancement, providing no substantial performance improvements, and in my view, produces an unsatisfactory sound in diesel engines.

The vacuum pump is likely the issue; although they are generally reliable, later models are known to seize. A pre-owned item is inexpensive to purchase and simple to install.

I'm a bit late to this discussion, but please take a moment to review your arch liners. I’ve observed that on one side at the front, there is a small hatch, which I assume is for accessing the back of the headlight. On that same side, it appears to have dropped enough to create a gap in the plastic. Driving in the rain can lead to water being sprayed directly into the back of the headlight module, precisely where the ballast control modules are located, which over time may result in water ingress. This may not address your current problem, which seems to be related to either coding or a blown fuse, but it could help prevent a recurrence.