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My vehicle has reached 75,000 miles, thus it is comparable. I have experienced minor stuttering at partial throttle and occasionally a wisp of blue smoke upon ignition (I had the startup roar activated in bm3). I experienced minor pressure while opening the oil filler cap during operation, leading me to suspect the PCV valve; I had purchased a new valve cover but had not yet found the time to replace it… Currently, there is an excessive amount of compression in the crankcase; it resembles the sensation of placing your hand over the exhaust.

Indeed, it is highly probable that you are experiencing issues with the injectors. What is the mileage on your vehicle? My vehicle has precisely 80,000 miles. And was functioning exceptionally well. I experienced an unusual drive train failure merely a month or two following my acquisition of the vehicle. I dismissed it at the moment, and a swift shutdown and reboot resolved the issue, which never recurred. However, I believe I remember an individual stating in a forum discussion that this could signify faulty injectors. The damaged engine serves as a clear indication of the issue.:( I possess knowledge of Legit Street Cars. It would be absurd if the timing of spark plugs led to engine failure. Manufacturers are driving engines to their limits to extract every micrometer of efficiency, primarily to comply with emissions standards.

My vehicle's date is March 2017, so I suspect the injectors are original 👎 I doubt they have been replaced, although it's possible - I will verify the part numbers on the injectors when I remove the engine. Legit streetcars recently released a video detailing a Mercedes engine failure caused by improper spark plug alignment, resulting in a melted cylinder wall - it seems almost unbelievable 🤯 The notice I possess is in Danish, but I will endeavor to translate it and forward it.

That is unfortunate. I have studied the technique of clocking spark plugs to achieve a marginal enhancement in power. However, I have never encountered GDI engines exhibiting such sensitivity. I question whether that was relevant to the situation. I would wager that your engine experienced the same problem as mine, given that it is also a 2017 model. My vehicle was equipped with the original injectors, and BMW developed an updated version. The injectors are prone to leakage, which erodes the oil from the cylinder walls, ultimately leading to piston failure. The discussion on the BabyBMW forum indicates that both the B46/B48 and B58 have encountered this issue. Examine the door label on the driver's side to ascertain the manufacturing date of your vehicle. If it predates August 2017 and contains the original injectors, that is the cause. My vehicle was manufactured in May 2017 and still possesses the original fuel injectors. I will procure a pre-owned engine and compile a list of components. I will simply replace it with the identical engine. I discovered several videos on YouTube featuring an individual who performed a swap on a 2017 Mini. This will assist in understanding the process, although I possess a basic comprehension of the necessary actions. My vehicle features a manual transmission, and there exists an ACT clutch installation video demonstrating the procedure for detaching the transmission from the automobile. I will execute that initially, followed by extracting the engine from above. Remove the obsolete components from the new engine and transfer the functional parts from my damaged engine to the donor. I contemplated performing the ACT clutch while I am present, but I remain uncertain. My factory clutch appeared to be functioning adequately with the 93 BM3 calibration. I am likely to acquire the entirely metallic oil filter housing/cooler since the standard plastic component is a recognized point of failure. Could you share the link to the spark plug clocking bulletin if you possess it? More inquisitive about it than anything else. I appreciate it.

Identical narrative to my 2017 Countryman Cooper S All4 that ceased functioning last week. Zero compression observed on cylinder two… I was also operating BM3 stage 1, but with 91 octane. I also have significant reservations that the melody was the cause of its demise. I discovered a service bulletin regarding the B48, indicating that the spark plugs must be oriented properly; otherwise, the electrode may disrupt the injector spray pattern and flame front, potentially leading to melted pistons and cylinder walls. Mercedes encountered the identical problem. Interestingly, I replaced the spark plugs with Bosch ones approximately six months ago… I still need to verify whether the plugs have different threading, but Bosch claims they are not clock-specific. I have been considering replacing the B48A20T1 from the LCI JCW models, but it appears to be a complex task due to the altered DME module and its utilization of a more recent "bordnetz" communication protocol compared to the 2017 BDC. Additionally, it necessitated replacing the transmission, although that would have been feasible.

The engine in my 2017 Mini Cooper S is essentially finished. I was operating a vehicle on the Interstate on Friday during daylight hours. Increased speed moderately and promptly experienced a decline in power, followed by alerts on the iDrive indicating diminished power and a drivetrain malfunction. Numerous misfire codes are present as well. I managed to drive the car home despite its limitations, covering a distance of approximately 5 miles. It probably caused additional harm, but I believe the primary damage occurred when the vehicle lost power. I commenced an investigation into the underlying cause and discovered this discussion: https://www.babybmw.net/threads/b48...threads/b48-b58-injector-failure-cracked-piston-bore-scoring-megathread.148577/ My vehicle aligns impeccably with the specified description. My vehicle is still equipped with the original injectors from before August 2017, which are responsible for the issue. I anticipated that the issue was merely injector malfunction, so I replaced them with the updated components, yet there was no improvement. Additionally, new spark plugs and ignition coils are included. Once more, there is no alteration. Subsequently, I conducted a compression assessment on all four cylinders. Cylinder 1 - 210 pounds per square inch. Cylinder 2 - 160 pounds per square inch. Cylinder 3 - 0 pounds per square inch. Cylinder 4 exhibits a pressure of 210 psi. It is probable that cylinder 3 possesses a fractured piston. Cylinder 2 is experiencing a problem with reduced compression. A fractured piston may also be present, along with potential cylinder scoring due to fuel washdown. I have thoroughly appreciated the vehicle and intend to repair it. The vehicle is clearly no longer covered by warranty, thus I will be undertaking the engine replacement independently. I intend to purchase a pre-owned engine and subsequently replace the existing one. Revitalize certain components. I have been utilizing a 93 octane Stage 1 Bootmod3 calibration. I cannot assert that this did not play a role in my engine deterioration, yet all the literature I have encountered regarding the B46/B48 engines indicates they are exceptionally robust and dependable. The 93 octane BM3 calibration is secure. I have additionally been utilizing a high-flow catalytic downpipe and an enhanced intercooler. It's unfortunate, but it is what it is.

A discount of 20% on MFG was available until the end of September. If my recollection is accurate from last month's excursion to Aberdeen (Evo had inflated prices and I was unable to reach Tesla in the evening (beers!))

I appreciate the notification regarding P&C with the Puma; mine now asserts that it is activated. Currently, there is an MFG round in this vicinity that is expected to be p&c; I will verify upon approaching.

I have successfully activated plug and charge in Electroverse, and it appears as operational on the Ford App; I will test it during my next long journey.

Amazon.co.uk : Ford Puma

Amazon.co.uk : Electroverse EV charging

I primarily recharge at home, yet I appreciated the ease of plug-and-charge on the previous Blueoval charging network. Consequently, I periodically verified whether the Puma had been incorporated into Electroverse, and it appears that the recent TCU-26.2.11.5 update has facilitated its inclusion.

I previously utilised WD-40 prior to receiving guidance from the mechanic, and encountered no issues; however, I have adhered to the counsel provided since then. The sole observation I have made is that it appears to endure longer than typical WD-40; perhaps that is what he referred to regarding its tendency to become tacky over time.

I will adhere to your suggestion, but I am 73 years old and have utilised WD40 for approximately 40 years. I have never observed this firsthand. I concur that graphite powder is optimal for a lock barrel; however, in my experience with actual hinged components such as bonnet locks and hinges, I have applied numerous sprays without encountering any 'sticky' problems, but I appreciate your feedback.

During my ownership of a Discovery 3, the mirrors would often adhere; a Land Rover technician recommended applying a silicone lubricant - I utilise WD40 Silicone lubricant (other brands are accessible), and I was cautioned against using standard WD40 on door locks, hinges, etc., as it may exacerbate the issue, since standard WD40 can become exceedingly tacky upon drying.

Silicone Lubricant - WD-40 Specialist 400ml - Pack of 2 : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Are they the ones that are flush with the bodywork and protrude when the key is used to unlock? I have not encountered any problems, but I cleared away any debris using a 1-inch paintbrush and applied a light mist of WD40 on the visible folding hinges and slightly into the deeper section behind them. Throughout two winters, I have completed the task twice, and it has been exceptionally seamless. I have come across information indicating that they can lead to issues and are costly to fix. Similar to the majority of products on our cherished RR’s!

The door handle of my Evoque has begun to feel rigid recently, particularly in colder temperatures. It continues to function, yet the fluidity has undoubtedly diminished.

I lower the headlights for an approaching vehicle, and they revert to high beam. - A different vehicle is nearing me from around a bend, activating its high beams as it turns the corner. A perfectly straight road causes the main beam to activate as the approaching vehicle is too distant for the system to detect, dazzling the oncoming motorist. I thoroughly detest that system, and it has become customary for me to deactivate it promptly upon starting the engine.

I disabled it on my device. It lacks sufficient speed and sensitivity, resulting in frequent flashing, and it fails to operate below 30 mph, as it presumes you are in an urban environment; however, many local roads have speed limits under 30 mph where high beam is necessary.

Could I enquire about the reason? I possess an ALS on my S204 and appreciate every aspect of it.

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I possess that feature on our Hilux, and I despise it.

This is an exceptionally splendid attribute... during a nocturnal drive (outside urban locales), I relish activating them and allowing them to remain on, confident that the vehicle will graciously dim the high beams upon detecting an approaching car. I have never experienced this feature in any vehicle prior, so I am thoroughly enjoying it. Is this an upgrade that is frequently adopted by individuals?

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