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I would examine the number 4 bushings or the springs.

I possess a 1995 E36 with a manual 5-speed transmission, and I am experiencing a noise when depressing the clutch pedal. What is the method to resolve this issue? Is it merely a bearing replacement?

A participant in the new member sticky indicated that the engines are somewhat noisy and that what I am characterising as a "knock" is probably only a standard "tick". I am currently performing an ECM reset and relearn, will manually compute the mileage, and will apply a fuel system cleaning. I will respond with the results. Excellent suggestions, thank you!

https://www.google.com/search?q=ECM+(Engine+Control+Module)&client=safari&sca_esv=92debb9001157326&channel=mac_bm&source=hp&ei=vQABafXyAav1kPIPpMqOkQ8&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaQEOzZtQQQW1YhcC2kZX9hTEKkDuj7LL&oq=2023+camry%2C+how+do+I+reset+the+ecm+and+do+a+rel&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6Ii8yMDIzIGNhbXJ5LCBob3cgZG8gSSByZXNldCB0aGUgZWNtIGFuZCBkbyBhIHJlbCoCCAAyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUiTmQFQAFjVenAAeACQAQCYAW-gAaweqgEENDMuNLgBAcgBAPgBAZgCL6ACzSDCAgsQABiABBiKBRiRAsICDhAuGIAEGLEDGMcBGNEDwgIOEAAYgAQYigUYsQMYgwHCAggQLhiABBixA8ICCxAAGIAEGLEDGIMBwgILEC4YgAQYsQMYgwHCAg4QLhiABBiKBRixAxiDAcICBRAAGIAEwgIKEC4YgAQYigUYQ8ICCBAAGIAEGLEDwgIKEAAYgAQYigUYQ8ICDRAuGIAEGIoFGEMYsQPCAgQQABgDwgIIEC4YsQMYgATCAgUQLhiABMICBxAAGIAEGArCAgYQABgWGB7CAgsQABiABBiKBRiGA8ICCBAAGIkFGKIEwgIFEAAY7wXCAggQABiABBiiBMICBRAhGJ8FwgIFECEYqwKYAwCSBwQ0MS42oAfQ8AKyBwQ0MS42uAfNIMIHCTAuMTAuMzYuMcgHuwE&sclient=gws-wiz&mstk=AUtExfAqathgzG1Xxtms_zVKmWYsF57GP-4Uw0sASgQP7NdcvXTv82qgc-hHMwn2FJTktR3YQC2uWhLYdZWpoVS8uThkGRbwWhJ04cHBJ4JmundhdXRgYAZ4aXahQR67jFk7N5A&csui=3&ved=2ahUKEwi8ocv2uMeQAxWYiI4IHdXIFekQgK4QegQIARAB

If a code and knock were present, I would assume a potential timing issue that the ECM cannot adequately adjust the air/fuel ratio for, possibly indicating a faulty knock sensor. However, that remains mere conjecture at this juncture. I am considering resetting the ECM to enable it to recalibrate based on your driving behaviour. To reset the ECM on a 2023 Camry, detach the battery for a minimum of 10 minutes, then reattach it. Upon reconnection, set the ignition to the "on" position for 1-2 minutes, initiate the engine, allow it to idle for approximately 10 minutes, and thereafter execute a drive cycle encompassing both city and highway speeds to enable the vehicle to recalibrate its parameters.

I utilised the vehicle's trip computer for monitoring miles per gallon. I have not engaged in traditional mathematics, but you are correct; I ought to do so. My scanner is rudimentary, but I am in the process of updating. It produces an unpleasant noise upon cold start, characterised by a rhythmic knock, possibly originating from a specific cylinder, and I believe I can detect a subtle rhythmic sound or knock during warm idle. However, I am unfamiliar with the vehicle and cannot ascertain if it is its typical sound. Ought I should publish or share a video? We have possessed it for merely 10 days; however, it appears to operate adequately, save from the knock, which may not necessarily be problematic. The driver's side visor detached, but it is easily repairable. 43,000 miles. Two proprietors. Delivered to the dealership for routine maintenance. No active or pending codes exist. Thank you for your response!

Are you utilising the vehicle's system for the MPG figures or employing traditional calculations? Do you possess a scanner capable of reading live data? Understanding the fuel trims, for instance, could be advantageous. In addition to the fuel efficiency, how does it perform in terms of operation and handling? What is the mileage, and are you aware of the maintenance history of the vehicle? I assume the Check Engine Light is off, signifying that no diagnostic codes are present?

We recently purchased a 2023 Camry XLE (4-cylinder, front-wheel drive), and the fuel efficiency is far lower than claimed. We are achieving 32 miles per gallon on the highway and 19-23 in urban driving, compared to the quoted figures of 27/38. I am really apprehensive on this matter, as the mileage and economy of the V6/SUV were primary factors in our decision to select a 4-cylinder front-wheel-drive model. The tires are little larger than specified (235/45 R19 instead of R18), but I have read that this should have a minimal impact on fuel efficiency. I possess mechanical aptitude and am aware of the necessity to inspect fundamental components (oil, air filter, MAF sensor, diagnostic codes, tyre pressure); no apparent faults are present. The dealer replaced the oil and installed new tires prior to the sale. All counsel is appreciated. I do not observe any fuel efficiency concerns about these vehicles when I conduct online research. I am concerned that we have purchased a defective product.

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Your mileage is minimal, so you are likely in good condition; may you encounter no issues in the future!

I have encountered no problems!

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Is that the model known for frequent CVT failures?

If I recall correctly, the US market C-HR is equipped with a 2-liter 3ZR-FAE engine paired with a CVT, a configuration not utilised elsewhere globally.

Somewhat, certainly, but it is precisely all I require. The RAV4 was excellent. Our daughter currently possesses it, and it has over 100,000 miles.

Somewhat, certainly, but it is precisely all I require. The 2015 Rav4 was undoubtedly excellent. Our daughter now possesses it, and it has exceeded 100,000 on it!

That sounds excellent; but, downsizing from the RAV4 must be challenging, as the C-HR appears far smaller.

Greetings, Following my Rav-4, and uncertain of my preferences, I encountered this vehicle on the lot, and it was an immediate attraction! While I would prefer a BMW roadster in this colour, a retired teacher's salary does not permit such a purchase. I have owned the C-HR for six years and have much appreciated it. I undoubtedly depend on my phone for GPS navigation. Nonetheless, it is the ideal size for me (My 6'1" husband is not really fond of it, but he is content that I am pleased.) The driving and ride are seamless; it has ample space in the rear for gardening and antiquing equipment; the fabric seats are comfy; and it achieves excellent fuel efficiency. I appreciate the door knobs for the rear seats! I possess only 25,000 miles on it and aspire not to get another vehicle, until the BMW materialises.

I concur; high mileage is subjective and may encompass anything up to 250,000 miles, I presume. The service history is crucial; after you identify a desired vehicle, obtain the VIN and contact BMW support. They will provide you with the servicing details via email, allowing you to verify if it corresponds with the iDrive records. Indeed, servicing nine times out of ten is crucial; nevertheless, the issue lies in BMW's imprudent extended mileage oil intervals, which may be acceptable for the initial years but are suboptimal. Consequently, even with 100,000 miles on the odometer, individuals erroneously believe that changing the oil every 13,000 to 18,000 miles is adequate. If an individual has performed the servicing themselves, there may be concerns regarding their use of appropriate oil or opting for inferior products from discount retailers, necessitating the examination of invoices.

What is regarded as high mileage for the N57 engine? Can most issues be prevented by regular maintenance? I intend to acquire an asset valued at approximately 60,000 and likely sell it in a few years when it reaches 100,000. Is the 57 engine unreliable, or is it merely more susceptible to problems than the 47? Thank you

Both vehicles are commendable. The 420d is the more economical option for operational expenses, while the 430d offers somewhat enhanced performance; nonetheless, it is not significantly powerful. Locating a 420d that has been customised by an owner or searching online for a 420d Individual will provide you with the desired vehicle and greater reassurance compared to the troubles seen by the 30d at elevated mileage.

Thank you for the information; I was unaware that they transitioned to LEDs in late 2017.

My driving primarily involves short excursions, such as dropping off at the station and trips to the grocery, both of which are less than a mile away. I primarily work from home, and when I commute to the office, it is merely a 15-minute journey. I am not the most qualified individual to provide fuel economy statistics. I operate a 2.0i BMW not for enjoyment, but owing to its significantly lower operating costs compared to a Ford Mondeo, as I perform most of the maintenance and repairs myself. If you seek a 2017-18 model, I recommend selecting a late 2017 variant. The headlight was upgraded from Xenon to LED. A cursory observation may not reveal the distinction, but the giveaway is that the Xenon features a diamond-shaped headlamp wash cover on the bumper, whilst the LED does not.

How do you determine the fuel efficiency of the 420i? I contemplated acquiring it, but the majority of reviews indicate that they are largely comparable, with the diesel variant offering slightly more power and around double the fuel efficiency. I am now inclined towards the 6.

I currently possess a 420i, however I have been provided with a 420d six-speed manual loan vehicle for two weeks while my previous E92 is being fixed by the insurance company. I remember driving the 420d, which had considerable torque, and I certainly tested the car at every red light. That was my first experience driving a diesel vehicle, which differed significantly from driving a petrol one. If you seek a vehicle for commuting and daily use with little operating expenses, the 420d is suitable; it is unremarkable compared to my 420i but offers slightly more torque. However, if you desire enhanced performance, consider the six-cylinder option. I would personally refrain from opting for X-drive unless absolutely necessary, as it introduces a another potential failure point as the vehicle ages. There are already several concerns associated with an older BMW.