Is there a gizmo for the inlet camshaft spring in the R56 1.6 petrol?

[Bedelon]

I own a Mini Cooper R56 1.6 petrol vehicle with a mileage of 90,000 km. My vehicle recently did not pass the MOT test due to rust on the front subframe and failed emissions.
I have obtained an additional subframe, which is already taken care of. To address the problem of emissions, I have made the decision to do an engine refresh, taking into consideration the mileage and the significant amount of smoke emitted while starting the engine after a brief period of idling. The vehicle had a recent replacement of its catalytic converter (CAT) two years ago, as well as the installation of both upstream and downstream oxygen (O2) sensors. The automobile has been operating without any issues and has not shown any problem messages. However, during the test, it failed due to exceeding the limitations for "Exhaust CO content at idle" and "Exhaust Hydrocarbon content after 2nd fast idle".
The CO readings were measured at 0.29%, while the HC levels were found to be 274ppm during the fast idle test.
During the second fast idle test, the carbon monoxide (CO) level was measured at 0.51% and the hydrocarbon (HC) level was measured at 279 parts per million (ppm).
The natural idle test resulted in a carbon monoxide (CO) level of 0.65%.

The engine has been removed and disassembled, and I now have all the necessary components except for an oil pump, which seems to be unavailable from Febi. I am doing decoking on it, replacing the valve stem seals, installing a new timing chain kit that includes Vanos hubs, replacing the rings, and I have just placed an order for a set of hydraulic valve lifters since the majority of the sixteen already installed are rather rigid.

My primary inquiry is how to reassemble the spring-loaded intake rocker shaft assembly when the time comes to reassemble it. I cautiously loosened the whole assembly in order to remove it, but a few of the roller rockers unexpectedly sprang out in the process, making it seem somewhat difficult to reassemble.
The reliable Haynes manual provides comprehensive information on most topics, but when it comes to the disassembly and reassembly of the intake camshaft, it simply advises seeing an expert.

Are there any hyperlinks to a lesson or has this topic been previously addressed in this forum? Can someone provide assistance or guide me towards the correct path?

Another question I have is about resetting the "attributes" after completing a task like this, particularly with relation to the Vanos and O2 sensors. Given that I lack any diagnostic equipment other than a low-cost code reader, I am uncertain if it is imperative to reset the characteristics or whether the system will automatically reset them after a certain duration. Since the MOT has expired, I am unable to take it to a nearby mechanic for them to do diagnostic tests on it.

Thank you in advance, everyone.

[SushySosa]

There is a specialised tool available for removing or replacing the springs. Alternatively, you may save money by using mike1967's way of reattaching them using a modified screwdriver as a lever.

Here is the specialised tool I purchased for the purpose of rebuilding my N12

[SushySosa]

They are expensive. Expect to spend around $200 for an inexpensive replica from China. You would be astounded at the exorbitant price BMW demands for a single unit.

Using the specialised tool, you may install the valve train without the springs, eliminating the risk of any components becoming detached. Next, you apply pressure to a spring using the tool and insert it into the valve train. Execute it promptly, eliminate the tool, and go to the subsequent task.

Mikes method, summarised, involves installing the valve train without the springs in the lever holders' slots. Then, a customised screwdriver is used to manipulate the spring legs into place on the lever arms.

Youtube has videos demonstrating both methods. Conduct a search and they will appear.

[Bedelon]

Thank you, I much value your support. I will do a search for the videos on the platform known as Youtube.

[MundeDas]

Prior to removing the 8mm bolts for the top thick blocks and the single long 8mm bolts for the posts, it is important to use a screwdriver with a ground slot to push the spring fingers inward and to one side of the uprights. Allow the spring fingers to rest against the camshaft. When rebuilding, place the camshaft on the head and tighten the rear 8mm bolts in the opposite direction. Additionally, the first upright should be positioned on its arm before placing the camshaft back on. Reverse the process used to remove the spring fingers from the upright followers.

[Bedelon]

Thank you for your reply and the advice on this position. Today, I will start the process of reconstructing the head. At some juncture, I will attempt to use the customised screwdriver tool.
I would like to express my gratitude to Coolhands and Flightops for their insightful replies. Thank you very much.

Mike, I have noticed that you have mentioned resetting "attributes" when doing a task like this, particularly in relation to the Vanos and O2 sensors. Unfortunately, I lack any sophisticated diagnostic equipment other than a low-cost handheld code reader. Therefore, I am wondering whether it is essential to reset the base settings manually, or if the ECU will automatically reset itself after a certain amount of operating.
Since the MOT has expired, it is now challenging to take the vehicle for a test drive or to a nearby mechanic to utilise their diagnostic tools.
Ideally, I would want to ensure that it is operating smoothly and within acceptable parameters before presenting it for its retest.

Thank you.

[MundeDas]

Here is how to properly balance the first upright follower immediately before installing the drop camshaft. Additionally, be sure to use wellseal to seal the oil channels on the posts, especially the first post where the vanos draws its oil from.

[spartan]

I recorded a video of the tool I used. Resembling Mike's screwdriver, but with a little slimmer profile.

 

[SushySosa]

Here is a video showcasing the particular tool:

 

[MundeDas]

I have examined the tool and concluded that I have spent more than £300 on high-quality cam locks for the timing chain side. It is crucial for this component to be of the highest standard. The springs, on the other hand, do not have any adjustable features. The key is to properly position them on the upright followers. I could not justify spending such a large sum of money on something that can be accomplished inexpensively. Even replacing the springs can be reset by catching the torx bolt while the spring fingers are against the camshaft, as long as one is cautious about the threads. In the future, I may create a tool using an old pair of molgrips and a welder, as it is a relatively simple task. It is worth noting that I have likely completed this procedure on over 1000 engines in the same manner. It takes me approximately 10 minutes to disassemble and 20 minutes to reassemble the engine, without the use of that tool.

[SushySosa]

Impressive. I want the tool due to the following reasons:

a. Facilitated the task for me
b. I have a strong inclination in collecting and using tools.

However, I think that whatever is effective is acceptable.

[MundeDas]

I completely understand. Over the years, I have accumulated a vast collection of specialised tools, amounting to thousands of pounds. However, I have reached a stage in life where I am frustrated with owning items that I only use once or twice, especially considering the excessive prices I have paid in the past. I am not suggesting that purchasing the designated tool for a specific job is incorrect, but rather that there are often more cost-effective alternatives available. It is likely that many individuals on this platform only work on a limited number of these engines, and therefore prioritise finding the most economical solutions.

[MundeDas]

If you were in close proximity to me, you could visit and I would make adjustments to accommodate your preferences for a beverage, in a humorous manner.

[Bedelon]

Is York in close proximity to your location?

[MundeDas]

Unfortunately, I am not located in Cornwall. However, anybody who has a Snap-on diagnostics kit may do the task, which typically takes about 20 minutes.