Issue with cooling fan on 2003 Mini Cooper with 78,000 km.

[Automan]

Hello everyone, I am new to this platform from the UK. I have come across some helpful material, but none that addresses my specific issue. After the cooling fan in my Cooper quit operating, I removed it and saw that the resistor was damaged. The fan seemed old, so it was replaced with a new one that included a resistor, but it still does not function.I connected the socket, verifying that the high speed was operational. The thermostat has been replaced and is functioning well. All fuses and relays have been inspected and are functioning properly to the best of my knowledge. Some versions have a single hookup for the fan assembly, but mine has two connectors - one large and one little. The ECU, BCM, and other related components in the car have been replaced and reset, with all other functions working properly. I need assistance with this matter, thank you.

[Squirrrel]

Having ISTA allows you to independently operate the low speed fan and high speed fan to verify the integrity of the fan wire.

[Automan]

Thank you for your response. Could you perhaps clarify what ISTA stands for?

[Squirrrel]

This is the official BMW diagnostic tool used at the manufacturer. Which are somewhat accessible online.
INPA is antiquated and operates on the DOS platform. That might be sufficient.
Next, there was DIS 57, which will likely enough.
ISTA-D has been replaced by ISTA+. If you get one of these, you will be able to do comprehensive diagnostics and activate components such as the fan.

[Squirrrel]

I am uncertain about the wiring of the two-plug fan, but I believe that with the single-plug version, you may test the high and low speeds by applying 12 volts to the large connection. I believe there are three pins, if my memory serves me well.

[Squirrrel]

Access the secret option on the cluster to see the actual coolant temperature in degrees Celsius. The gauge on the dashboard is not genuine. The device does not monitor the coolant temperature.

[Automan]

Thank you for the information. I am uncertain, but it seems that regardless of the temperature, the car's fan should activate at some time to prevent overheating.

[Automan]

You may perhaps bypass the OE systems, retain the fan, and use a product like this to circumvent the troublesome tiny components: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Flex-lite-31163-Variable-Temperature/dp/B001UPYW1W

[Squirrrel]

A malfunctioning cooling cap will prevent the system from pressurising. The system will reach its boiling point at 100 degrees Celsius. The fan does not activate because the low-speed fan only activates at temperatures around 104 degrees Celsius.

Accessing the secret menu allows you to see the real-time temperature readings. The gauge is unreliable since it reaches 50% at about 60°C and remains at that level. The temperature gauge only registers a change until the coolant exceeds around 111°C, at which point it immediately jumps to the maximum reading.

[Automan]

I will inspect the cap to ensure it is secure. I was not aware of the impact of pressure.

[Istairde]

If you are located in the South West, our expert mechanic can inspect it for you at a very affordable price.

[Automan]

Thank you for the offer, however it's a little far for me since I am in London.