Anhartic Posted 1 hour ago Share Posted 1 hour ago Salutations everyone, I have spent days researching the problem and have bought all the essential parts, including a genuine MERC harmonic balancer and bolt, a torque wrench to tighten to 200 nm, and a 27 mm impact socket, but I still can't figure out how to lock the pulley so I can remove the 27 mm bolt. As a means of leverage, I possess two sections of scaffolding pipe. A 50 mm thick piece of steel that I had drilled four holes at the end, fastened with two long bolts, and wedged into the ground was my creation. It was working fine until it fell out. Curious if anybody has ever created their very own tool... While the YouTube video demonstrates the proper usage of an equal tee with a coupler and flange, I'm afraid that this setup will not accommodate the 27mm bolt. There doesn't appear to be a flange that can accommodate both the 27 mm bolt and fitting inside the balancer. Please, if you have any ideas, help me get this beast back on the road! Best regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DownContent Posted 1 hour ago Share Posted 1 hour ago One such tool exists! W112 589 00 40 00 (I've never done this, but anyone who has could have some interesting things to say about it). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DownContent Posted 1 hour ago Share Posted 1 hour ago https://www.specialtyautotoolrentals.com/lander?manufacturers_id=7&osCsid=1t2o0e0ssl0j6kj84m0r2ibj91&products_id=63 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anhartic Posted 1 hour ago Author Share Posted 1 hour ago Apologies for the oversight. I should have clarified that I did locate the tool; but, it can only be bought from an American vendor and will set you back £80 (not including delivery). An amusing trinket for an occasional use item... Therefore, I am attempting to construct my own tool in some way. I have been contemplating this idea all day and plan to cut two little pieces off the end of the metal rod tonight to form a triangle. Then, I will thread another bolt through the top to hopefully secure it more firmly. Upon my return, I will share a photo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mantelle Posted 56 minutes ago Share Posted 56 minutes ago https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=engine+pulley+lockjg+chain&client=safari&hl=en-gb&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiC47qm54zNAhXqA8AKHQXYBe4Q_AUICCgC&biw=1024&bih=648&udm=2&sei=A7sWaur2EKyvhbIPvIqM8AE#hl=en-gb&tbm=isch&q=engine+pulley+locking+chain&imgrc=2acRbQw97_MqBM%3A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mantelle Posted 56 minutes ago Share Posted 56 minutes ago These are essential. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anhartic Posted 55 minutes ago Author Share Posted 55 minutes ago There is just enough space to insert the 27mm socket onto the bolt, as shown in the images below, for it to fit within the pulley. So that it would lay flat on the metal cross member directly beneath, I bevelled the end of the bar. If anyone else needs to change the crankshaft pulley but doesn't want to spend £80 on the right equipment, I thought I'd share some pictures and measurements. Half an inch thick and one and a half inches wide is the dimensions of the bar. To form the angle to rest on the cross member, the longest side is 11.5 inches and the other side is 11 inches. Surprisingly, the holes were drilled at a metal fabricators where I obtained the metal bar, but to my delight, they fit precisely. Ignore all other holes; the ones you need to drill are 3.5 and 8 centimetres from the end. To avoid protruding, the M8 bolts have been trimmed to fit snugly inside the pulleys' holes. Since I despise reading things that don't end, I updated this in the hopes that it would be useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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