TheCreakyChair

Greetings, When a charged battery is attached, voltage is present under the hood, indicating that the main cable is intact. Based on my readings, the complete loss of power may have been due to low voltage to the FEM. I believe there will be two or three issues instead than just one. I anticipate acquiring more information tomorrow, although it would not astonish me if I do not.

Greetings everyone, I seek guidance from anyone who may have encountered a similar situation or can provide direction. I possess a 2013 BMW F31 that has manifested an unusual and significant electrical problem, which I am currently endeavouring to resolve. Several months ago, my nephew was operating the vehicle at approximately 60 mph when it abruptly ceased functioning – the engine stalled instantaneously, the dashboard went entirely dark, and there were no indications from the iDrive or any lights. It failed to initiate on the roadside as well, exhibiting no response. Subsequent developments are as follows: Battery replacement executed → no improvement A buddy installed a new starter motor, as initially thought; however, the car started just once and operated very roughly, with rattling and instability, as if it were lacking voltage. Subsequent to that solitary initiation, it reverted immediately to a state of complete inactivity. A mobile mechanic just installed a fully charged battery; yet, there is still no answer. The iDrive would momentarily display the BMW emblem before shutting down again. The hazard button began to flash autonomously and could not be deactivated. The central locking function operated solely with the physical key. Diagnostics revealed several "low voltage" errors across the majority of modules. The car remains unresponsive to a jump start, even when using heavy-duty cables from a vehicle. As of today, the symptoms have altered once more: The hazard button has ceased to flash. The iDrive is completely nonfunctional at present. There is entirely no inner power, no flicker, nothing - it is more "dead" than it has ever been. The vehicle has transitioned from intermittent low voltage issues to a total lack of electrical power. Considering all factors, I am inclined to conclude that the issue pertains to a significant power distribution failure, rather than an immobiliser/CAS malfunction, a starting problem, or a battery deficiency. The probable suspects appear to be: Failure of the main engine to chassis ground strap (a prevalent issue in F-series vehicles) The primary battery wire from the trunk to the front jump point is exhibiting significant resistance or experiencing internal failure. Damaged fusible link or BST (battery safety terminal) The FEM is losing its B+ or ground supply, rather than the FEM itself being defective. An independent mobile specialist for BMW/Mini is scheduled to assess the issue. However, prior to his arrival, I would want to enquire: Has anyone experienced a total power loss in an F30/F31/F32 while in motion, followed by an inability to restart or accept a jump start thereafter? What was the cause, if that is the case? Any insights from those who have seen analogous issues on the F-series platform would be greatly valued. I seek to refrain from indiscriminately spending on arbitrary components and would appreciate insights on what has effectively resolved the issue for others. Thank you in advance!

I am passionate about automotive detailing and have a preference for black vehicles. I have experienced only one, however. They appear splendid immediately after cleaning, however that enthusiasm diminishes the following day. Even dawn dew renders them unclean.

Can anyone provide insights on the value of installing adjustable coilovers or the potential issues they may cause? Has anyone had experience with their installation?

I replaced the 17-inch wheels on my Cooper S with 16-inch ones, which provide increased sidewall on the tires and significantly enhance comfort. I am now considering replacing the dampers and springs to further improve ride quality due to the condition of the roads.

Thank you, Preedom. I will review it.

The vehicle lacks integrated navigation and depends on connectivity to mobile phone mapping applications.

It lacks an integrated navigation system. It depends on linking to applications on my mobile phone.

I possess a 2022 Niro 2 EV (ex demonstration model). My current software version is SG2_EV.EUR.D2V.001.001.2203. The current firmware version is SG2_EV.EUR.V215.220311. Are these the most recent versions for my model? If not, from where can I obtain them? I contacted Kia Navigation support, and they advised me to visit a Kia dealership for the update. This cannot be my sole alternative, can it? Your assistance would be valued.

This often occurs soon before to a rupture or fracture.They deteriorate inside; the MOT is only a superficial inspection. Consequently, I regret to assert that a recent MOT offers no assurance. I will paint my item (212 2010) and apply rustproofing to the inside and outside as thoroughly as possible. I own an inexpensive borescope that connects to my phone, which I will use to inspect the inside prior to applying the rust inhibitor, ensuring it is sound and robust. It seems to be in excellent condition externally and has been a vehicle from Kent/Sussex throughout its existence, with little exposure to winter salt in this region.I am optimistic that she will be reliable. I will not be doing the task for a few weeks; however, I will report my results and, possibly, provide photographs of the inside of the frame, contingent upon image quality.