Talentrews

I removed the 10mm nut from the terminal clamp, reattached the connection, and then replaced the nut.

I have linked mine to the battery and have never had any issues. For eight years, I have connected the CTEK charger to one of my automobiles once a month during the weekend.

Thank you for all the responses. I was also astonished that the engine could be so simply damaged. I was apprehensive about doing it, but I will ascertain the source of the noise. I may get a lift and remove the sump, since I have nothing to lose. It is possible that the sump has deformed, causing an object to make contact with it. I would have expected the garage to discern the source of the noise. This is its appearance:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EGx-bIdIK8

Greetings to everyone, I own a 2010 W204 250 CDI (OM651) equipped with a plastic oil sump. I recently had an oil leak from the sump gasket, therefore I attempted to tighten the sump nuts; however, I did not use a torque wrench, likely resulting in overtightening. Following the tightening, the leak ceased; nevertheless, the engine now produces a pronounced knocking or ticking noise that accelerates with the rpm. The oil level is enough; nevertheless, I am concerned that I may have compressed the gasket, perhaps causing fragments to dislodge and obstruct the oil collection. Perhaps the sump is distorted or improperly positioned? Alternatively, it may be a coincidence that the engine failed simultaneously. The garage I visited reported that a component had detached and penetrated the engine. The engine is likely irreparably damaged and requires replacement. I had only drove it a short distance, about two minutes to the garage. It is necessary to elevate the engine in order to extract the sump, hence I am uncertain about the appropriate course of action. Ought I to relinquish my efforts? Alternatively, get a lift and attempt to replace the sump and gasket.

I have reviewed my list, and it is not present. Is your car a diesel, similar to mine? The screenshot may have originated from the application utilised on a fuel, albeit I am uncertain.

As already said. The list is extensive, but the information will be included. I was searching for something the other day, and it took me a considerable amount of time; dyslexia does not assist me, unfortunately.

It is remarkable to observe such a varied assortment of petrol and diesel engines present. Every individual possesses distinct preferences, which contributes to the vibrancy of the automotive community.

Today, we are exploring the realm of BMW engines. What is your preference? Regardless of your preference for the classic resonance of a petrol engine or the formidable torque of a diesel, there is much to admire. The progression of BMW's engineering has yielded remarkable breakthroughs, with each generation presenting distinct allure and performance. I would appreciate your insights. Do you favour the nostalgia of vintage models, or do you favour the advanced technology of contemporary releases? Convey your experiences and perspectives, as this diversity enhances the vibrancy and allure of the BMW community. Your views may assist fellow fans and prospective consumers in finding their ideal fit.

Have you resolved the issue?

Negative. It has already sent sufficient marketing exaggerations and falsehoods. I resign.

It is not. Seafoam was developed as a fuel stabiliser. If executed improperly, such a process may amass sufficient liquid in a cylinder to harm the engine.

Best of luck. Engaging in such actions might result in more harm than benefit.

The PCV system, which might be a source of oil if pooling occurs in the intake manifold, was not mentioned.

A reliable diagnosis cannot be obtained by a forum text message. This may also result from oil collection in the intake manifold being drawn into the cylinders during initiation. Additionally, valve stem seals. What is the condition of the hybrid battery? If you replace the engine, you may also anticipate a battery replacement costing around $2000 in the near future. Prior to investing significant time and resources, I highly recommend obtaining a diagnosis from a reputable shop, maybe two.

During an extensive journey to York and back, maintaining a speed of over 70 mph throughout, I can genuinely assert that I achieved no more than 46 miles per gallon. The reading from my spent fuel receipt and the full back-to-full method differed somewhat from the computer's display. If I had trusted the computer, I would have assumed I was achieving 51 MPG. Regrettably, I have had my car confiscated for the investigation of an electrical issue that prevents me from securely locking it, since the app indicates that the vehicle remains unlocked despite my attempts to secure it. Upon approaching my vehicle, it is sometimes locked, but at other times it is not. Repeated removals and reinstallation of the pertinent software on my compatible Android phone have yielded no discernible improvement. I could just uninstall the program and trust my own perceptions, but I want to use some capabilities it offers. I believe that when a producer launches a product, it should be suitable for its intended use, rather than a substandard and unacceptable item. My appeals to Toyota UK have yielded a loan vehicle, although there is no clear indication of when I will get my car back. I hope this does not replicate the circumstances I had with a brand new Golf, which was towed so often that it seemed to believe it was a vessel.

I appreciate all the comments and will update the website as I get any information.

Greetings, everyone. I am now acquiring a CHR Plug-in Hybrid; but, until I relocate and have a sufficiently enough garage, I have limited access to charging facilities at present. I seek individuals who frequently embark on extensive motorway journeys to share their fuel economy experiences when operating with minimal or no battery power, specifically the efficiency metrics achieved solely on the petrol engine or while in dedicated battery charge hold mode. I have thoroughly examined all available information online, and so far, only two reviewers have assessed it on a medium-length trip. Their assessments indicate a fuel efficiency of less than 45 MPG, which, if accurate, necessitates the prompt cancellation of my purchase. I am trading in my Lexus UX300h, which achieves around 42 to 45 miles per gallon on extended journeys at a speed of around 70 MPH. I appreciate any feedback; but, as my grandmother used to say, "If you have nothing nice to say, then say nothing."

The V8 engine has carbon buildup on the valves, which might potentially result in reduced compression if the valves are unable to shut effectively. High compression may result in the infiltration of fluids like as gasoline, oil, and coolant into the cylinder. Are all the plugs in satisfactory condition? Are there any damp electrical plugs?

Assuming you are correct, Rasa, I engage in this behaviour to maintain the high temperature of the engine and exhaust. However, this is only a personal preference on my part, expressed humorously.

Could 20 minutes be sufficient? Prior to starting, it is necessary for the engine to reach the desired temperature. Additionally, when driving, it is advisable to use a lower gear in order to maintain the engine revolutions per minute (RPM) at roughly 3,000. And have a hopeful attitude. When my vehicle has only been used for short distances for a while, I drive it for 20 minutes in one direction and then return, maintaining high engine revolutions. So far, this method has been effective for me.

Appreciation is extended. Did you get the signal from the MMI rather than the amplifier? Is that technique distinct from the act of connecting to the front woofer cables on the amplifier in my car's trunk, considering that the B&O system is MOST and hence I assumed there were no speaker wires at the MMI? Therefore, I am able to accurately locate the speaker wires that connect to my front woofers, remove the rubber insulation from the wires, and then connect additional wires that will be connected to my rd500/1 amplifier by soldering. So, the plan is to operate the subwoofer while using the standard amplifier to power the front door speakers, correct?

Alright, I am considering accepting your suggestion if we are certain that the fronts have more control. To clarify, if I understand correctly: 1. I need access to the Front Door Lower Woofers. Connect the positive and negative terminals of the left woofer to the corresponding inputs on the left side of the amplifier. Connect the right woofer's positive (+) and negative (-) terminals to the corresponding right input terminals of the amplifier. 2. In order to get the desired outcome, should I set the amplifier voltage input to a high level rather than a low one? 3. Since this amplifier is compatible with high input, there is no need for additional equipment such as a lci2lro. I would just connect to the front doors via the amplifier in the trunk and establish a direct connection to the amplifier. 4. Are we aware of the specific colour of the cables that are being used by the factory B&O amplifier for the front door woofers? I really value the assistance you have provided so far.

How does this function by accessing the fibre optic network? Do you have any suggestions? I would want to access a whole range signal if available, but I am not how to determine whether the front speakers are capable of producing a full range of frequencies. Should I connect an LC2i Pro between the subwoofer pre-out and my new amplifier to prevent roll-off?