BuffUpdate

evokes nostalgia

Greetings, I recently purchased a Tesla Model S Cat S with complimentary supercharging at 69,000 miles, however I failed to conduct prior study on the complications associated with salvage vehicles. The vehicle was rear-ended five years ago and subsequently fixed. Tesla has notified me that the vehicle will be prohibited from utilising the Tesla Supercharger network. The vehicle will never be capable of utilising Full Self Drive. Tesla will refrain from doing any services or upgrades on the car. The customer support representative informed me that an inspection process is possible, but it exceeds £1,000 and is not deemed worthwhile. I was unaware of this earlier since the prior owner had 'unlocked' software functions on the vehicle, including reactivating the supercharger. I currently desire the MCU2 upgrade for my Tesla, as my screen is exceedingly sluggish. Does anyone possess additional information regarding this inspection, its actual cost, and any alternate options available to me? Additionally, any information regarding the 'unlock' performed by the prior owner would be appreciated. This may be a sensitive subject, so please feel free to send me a private message.

The issue is that the IBS is located at the negative terminal of the battery, necessitating a connection to an other grounding point. BMW recommends the terminals located in the engine compartment.

Thank you, the battery is located in the trunk. I will ascertain if I own a T50.

Greetings, everyone. I own a Ctek 5.0 charger equipped with a new cable (CTEK 56-261) for hardwiring in the engine compartment near the battery terminals. Is there anybody who can provide guidance on their removal? Does it resemble hex in the center of the post? The vehicle is a 640D. Where should I attach the negative side, considering the cable is around 40 cm length for hardwiring? Thank you.

The original equipment manufacturer front springs on my C55 AMG were produced by Eibach. The firm refused to sell directly to me; I procured the items via MB, where the pricing was fair and I was assured of the exact components.

I consistently do an Italian tune-up on our vehicles on route to the examination.

porterfieldbrakes.co.uk

Perhaps something like to this?

Porters are significant in the United States.

Are Endless brake pads manufactured in the United States? Portersfield R4S is another excellent brand of pads, specifically designed for street racing. Exceedingly clean rims devoid of dust and very compatible with rotors. This is a pad manufactured in the United States. A UK branch sells these imported pads; I purchased a set before to Brexit and incurred no tariffs. No, it is all subpar due to the additional costs associated with tariffs.

I disagree; the back seats are plenty comfy, and the legroom is enough, even for adult passengers. The optional sunroof seems to restrict headroom to some extent. The rear row is insufficiently spacious to accommodate 3 people comfortably, although it may comfortably accommodate 2 individuals.

My 158 gdi works well. Exhibits strong pulling power starting at around 1300 revolutions per minute.However, it may exhibit some reluctance at low engine speeds.If the automobile is not completely motionless, you must be in first gear. However, for some of my prior cars, second gear would allow for smooth acceleration from extremely low speeds. I promptly adjusted my driving technique to a little extent, and it has never posed any issues. I only had a single instance of stalling the vehicle throughout a span of 9000 miles of driving. The first vehicle you test drove was evidently a failure, therefore it is advisable to avoid it.

Congratulations for successfully doing the repairs - it is very gratifying when you are able to resolve the issue alone. I own an automobile that is comparable, however it is from the year 2009 and has a higher mileage. I have driven 10,000 km since last year and completely repaired the suspension. However, I am still experiencing a little knocking sound, which I believe is due to the Febi components. Unfortunately, I have not had positive experiences with them lately. A toast to the new year! I saw your previous post about a broken batwing, which is an often seen issue. In my case, I resolved the problem by replacing the damaged component with a silicone tee. I am inclined to replace the O2 sensor as a standard procedure as it is the original one.

It is possible that the auxiliary battery was either damaged or worn out. The alternator produces an output of 14.7 volts to charge the battery. It provides no information on the battery. The battery voltage is measured in the absence of engine operation. It seems that the primary battery is malfunctioning and likely requires replacement. Is this the authentic version? If such is the case, it has been completed satisfactorily.