All Activity

Which hose must I detach to introduce air and expel the majority of the coolant from the system? Clearly, when I proceed with this, the thermostat will be closed; hence, I may need to detach multiple hoses surrounding the thermostat housing. Which hoses would facilitate this process?

I utilised a cordless blower in the expansion tank until no fluid emerged from the drain faucet; nonetheless, only approximately 3-4 litres were expelled.

It will not completely expel all of it unless air is forced through the system, likely a significant amount within the engine block and the vehicle's heater.

Can someone inform me of my error? I am attempting to empty the cooling system, with the heater set to high. I have opened the drain tap at the bottom of the radiator and removed the cap from the expansion tank, nevertheless only approximately 3-4 litres have been expelled. What additional steps should I take?

😉

I wanted to verify the model of the D1S bulb in my vehicle. The one currently malfunctioning is a Philips Zenstart, while the other side features an Osram Xenarc. It appears that matching is unnecessary, as I have not observed any differences in hue or performance among them. I believe I will choose for the Osram to complement the other one.

I attempted to replace a bulb in my W211 with a lesser-known brand to economise, but it resulted in flickering and ultimately failed to function. Proceeding to Osram encountered no difficulties. I believe I ultimately procured them from Amazon.

Consider Amazon, as they occasionally have promotions.

Valid observation

Always substitute in pairs.

Indeed, they are quite expensive!

https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/

The light appears to be malfunctioning. Please examine this for fitting and related details. Additionally, a commendable company to engage with. When I needed to replace mine on the W211, I purchased Osram.

The left headlight bulb has begun to exhibit a yellow hue, while the right bulb remains a bright white/blue tint.I have not previously owned a vehicle equipped with HIDs, but research indicates that this may signify impending failure. I require one. I believe it should be a D1S bulb. Do all individuals concur with this, and are certain options superior to others, or are they largely equivalent?

I will attempt this upon retrieving the car on Friday and inform you of the outcome. If it fails to function, I believe it may be time to exchange it. Thank you once more.

superb In that instance, utilise the following as a step-by-step guide to assist you. One. Initiate ISTA and Establish Connection Attach your ENET or K+DCAN cable. Launch ISTA+ (Rheingold). Proceed to: Operations → Retrieve vehicle data → Full identification Allow ISTA to identify the VIN and retrieve the control unit hierarchy. Two. Conduct a Fault Memory Assessment Navigation sequence: Vehicle management → Diagnostics → Fault memory → Retrieve fault memory Authorise ISTA to scan all Electronic Control Units (oecus). Search for codes that reference: “Terminal 30 awakening” “Sleep mode inhibited” “Excessive closed-circuit current” “Elevated battery depletion while stationary” When a fault text specifies a particular ECU, take note; this typically indicates the module activating the bus. Three. Access Power Management History (the crucial step) Navigation sequence: Vehicle data → Control unit hierarchy → CAS (Car Access System) ↑ Functions → Power Management → Energy Diagnosis / Power Management History A table will now be displayed as follows: Date/Time Event Wake-up Reason Remarks 11/10 23:41 Vehicle activated TCB (Telematics) Remote call 11/11 01:03 Vehicle activated IHKA Climate request Convey it in the following manner: The “Wake-up cause” column names the control unit that kept the system alive or woke it up. If a module recurs — for instance, “TCB” or “CAS” — that is your suspect. Four. Verify Live Current Draw Navigation sequence: Vehicle management → Troubleshooting → Functional structure → Body → CAS → Test plan → Power management: Measurement of current in closed-circuit Subsequently: Secure the vehicle (simulate key extraction, terminal 15 deactivated). Allow approximately 25 to 30 minutes. Observe current draw: < 50 mA → normal sleep. > 100–200 mA → something’s awake. ISTA frequently designates this as "Vehicle not entering sleep mode." Five. Optional Guided “Energy Diagnosis” If ISTA presents you with a Test plan for Energy diagnosis or Battery discharge, please pick it. It automatically walks through: Battery history (State of Charge, State of Health) Sleep and wakefulness records Wake-up counters per module This test plan can generate a report enumerating the specific oecus responsible for wake-ups.

Thank you for the guidance, Engrol. I possess a copy of ISTA, but I am uncertain about its use; therefore, your guidance has been immensely beneficial.

A rapid assessment utilising ISTA on terminal 30 or for wake-up events will precisely identify the module responsible for the wake-up and subsequent drain. If the Indy has not accomplished that, they are more incompetent than esteemed, since they might have also requested a test plan in ISTA and asked you to return a week later, with the reason of the issue documented in a log and resolved by now. Always remember, the designation of a specialist by garages does not inherently confer expertise. I would not anticipate the auto electrician to possess ISTA readily available. Within ISTA Access the Power Management History Navigate to “Vehicle Information → Control Unit Tree.” Choose DME, CAS, FEM, or BDC according on your vehicle; typically, the F25 utilises either CAS or FEM. Access “Power Management” or “Energy Diagnosis” and select “Power Management History.” This record indicates: When the car entered a dormant state Upon awakening, which module initiated the wake-up process (e.g., “Wake-up cause: telematics control unit (TCB)” or “Wake-up cause: key request”) This is the essential function for diagnosing battery depletion. If a particular module is consistently identified as a wake-up cause, it is the primary suspect. To execute a testing protocol Execute an ISTA test plan for "Energy Diagnosis" or "Enhanced Battery Discharge." You may adhere to the on-screen guided workflow, which will display: Documented sleep/wake patterns Modules that inhibited sleep Battery charge log

My F25 has experienced battery depletion for over six months. It is presently at the garage for the third time to ascertain the cause of the issue. The initial alteration of the relay ceased the drain, resulting in a noticeable reduction in power consumption. I continue to have the issue of "increased battery usage when stationary," which occurs intermittently without a discernible pattern.The vehicle was returned to a highly regarded independent garage, which was unable to repeat the issue. It has since been referred to an auto electrician, who likewise cannot reproduce the fault. I am now considering the possibility that the automobile remains in an active state while at home, although I am uncertain as to why this occurs. Is there a possibility of Bluetooth interference affecting the system's connectivity or my home Wi-Fi? I possess two inexpensive Bluetooth battery monitors in close proximity on a camper; may these be the source of the issue? I am considering unconventional possibilities; however, what other factors could contribute to it at home? Thank you.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=mercedes parts&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512Xc5dd3e351f4bfbf7a5e310dea288df6d&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

Is there a single temperature sensor or multiple sensors on the C180 fuel model? Is it located in an accessible area? This is my initial step; I will substitute the sensor(s) with authentic Mercedes components.

Indeed, I am concerned that if this is a genuine overheating problem, it may cause damage. It is peculiar that the vehicle can operate for weeks without issues during regular driving around home, then occasionally the gauge rises unexpectedly. This has occurred while ascending a lengthy hill, though not consistently on this route. Yesterday, accelerating on the motorway triggered the issue, but when I reduced speed to 60 mph, the gauge returned to a normal and stable reading for 30 miles—no additional complications—until I increased speed back to 70 mph. Thank you very much

Thank you, that is a valid observation. The heater appears to be functioning normally. Completed an extensive motorway trip, and the heater did not exceed the normal temperature. I perceive that the engine is not overheating; nonetheless, this is merely a perception without substantiation. Thank you for the valuable suggestion. "Every seat is first class" - I concur with your assessment; I am new to this vehicle and appreciate its driving experience.

Another concern I encountered with this vehicle, for the benefit of others: Upon acquiring this pre-owned car with 79,000 miles, it exhibited a knocking sound in the back when traversing potholes. The local garage and I could not identify any issues. Their health assessment revealed no indications of bush or joint wear, yet a clunking sound persisted. Ultimately identified the issue through a process of elimination as the rear shock absorbers. No evidence of leaks; nonetheless, internal complications were present. I replaced the rear shocks with new Bilstein units, which were half the price of genuine Mercedes parts, and the vehicle now operates flawlessly.